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 ADVANCED
K Wall (aka M Face)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bombay TR 
Needles TR 
Outside Corner T,TR 
Pins T,TR 
Power of Positive Thinking, The T,TR 
Tensile Strength TR 
Thunderstorm TR 

The Power of Positive Thinking 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Paul Niland, c.1977
Page Views: 1,794
Submitted By: tscupp on Dec 31, 2007

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Climber on Pins. POPT is the a couple of feet to t...

Description 

This is a much better climb than it appears from the ground. Start up Pins (5.9) until you hit the left-angling seam. You can hand traverse here with a bad feet or climb Pins slightly higher and have the seam for feet. Mantle onto a good ledge and take a good rest before the crux. From here, follow a thin seam straight up using small edges, side pulls, and a few deceptive holds in the seam. I found the climbing to be quite sequency, technical and way harder than the surrounding climbs. I was surprised that I was still on the wall most of the time.

Eventually you can reach some bigger holds out right from the seam. Have a good rest then grab a hidden jug and fire through some small edges and a fun layback to the top.

On first effort, I felt this climb to be 11-, but it might just 10+ though Boston Rocks gives it grade of 10. Until you figure out the beta, it feels desperate. Lots of holds are hard to see or difficult to determine if they are any good until your hand is on them.

Definitely give it a try if you set up a rope for Pins or Outside Corner.

Location 

This is on the face right of the obvious, sharp arete as you enter The Quarries. It shares a start with Pins.

Protection 

Best to toprope with bolts at top for anchor.

Protection is good for the first third starting up Pins up through the diagonal traverse. Above here, the protection is poor taking maybe microstoppers in the seam and possibly small cams in the pods after the crux. Final third is better taking mostly small stuff here, but you may not even bother throwing any in as the holds improve.


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By john strand
From: southern colo
Jan 31, 2010

FA: Paul Niland around '77.