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The Frigate
Routes Sorted
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Bowspirit T,TR 
Can Can T 
Code of the Sea TR 
Flying Dutchman T,TR 
Frigate "walk off" T 
Galleass T,TR 
Jib, The T,TR 
Pooper, The T 
Stern, The T 
Unnamed route 20 T,TR 
When Life Gives You Lemons...SQUEEZE THEM TO DEATH! T,TR 
Yasik's Project T,TR 

The Pooper 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,320
Submitted By: Craig McCudden on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Stew getting it done on The Pooper.

Description 

If you use Spider Mitts you're going A0

It's tape or nothin'

One of the hardest 8's you'll ever climb

Protection 

There is a good pin near the start & then it goes standard rack


Photos of The Pooper Slideshow Add Photo
Tom
Tom
view of the pooper (15) from the base.
BETA PHOTO: view of the pooper (15) from the base.
Using the A0 spider Mitts for the lead  tisk, tisk
Using the A0 spider Mitts for the lead tisk, tisk
joe leading the pooper, at the traverse
joe leading the pooper, at the traverse
Sasquatch on The Pooper.
Sasquatch on The Pooper.
burt pulling gear after a nice lead by jerry w.
burt pulling gear after a nice lead by jerry w.
Aaron cranks
Aaron cranks

Comments on The Pooper Add Comment
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By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 15, 2006

Maybe the biggest sandbag at the lake???
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Jul 5, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Better than it looks.

Looking at it from the base, you figure the traverse will be the crux. The traverse is height and wingspan dependent. Finding the right crimps could be tough. Once you have the hand jams, you think its over ... think again!
By jon jugenheimer
From: Madison
Jul 6, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

how can this climb get a 5.8 rating??!!!! this is the hardest 8 in the world!! on my first attempt and failure......i was told it was a 10, that traverse isn't easy people.
By Tradoholic
Aug 25, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Oh god. I hated this climb. I tried for an OS and was totally punched in the balls by this sandbag. The traverse to the vert crack is totally height dependent, I was fine but anyone shorter than 6ft is screwed. Then, locking off hard with no feet, I went for a jam, which was solid but hurt like hell on which I fell.
I TR'd it by laybacking the vert crack but that would have required placing the gear blind. AND THEN, I sliced up my knees in the chimney above.
Oh, did I mention that the whole thing was slimy today. I thought it looked cool, but it climbs poorly.
Fuck this pile of poop.
By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Aug 26, 2009

Rhoads, try the Direct, hard 12 and way more fun.
By Tradoholic
Apr 30, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Ok, lead it today and found the good hold in the back of the crack, not as bad as I originally thought.

What the direct Trav? Straight up the face to the crack?
By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Apr 30, 2010

From the big triangle hole continue straight up and a little left (dont traverse right). From what I remember there is a little rest at the horizontal break half way up, then a second crux right at the end. I remember thinking this had such a definitive end. You go from small crimps to a huge jug and then topout, almost like bouldering at the dodge.
By Dylan Colon
From: Eugene, OR
Sep 19, 2010

Lead this yesterday. No route has made me bleed more than this one. First I split the back of a couple fingers trying to jam my fingertips into the horizontal seam for the traverse, then the crux hand jam took a good chunk out of the back of my hand. Anyway, I thought this was a good well-protected lead after I made sure the traverse had adequate pro for my tastes on TR.
By Tradoholic
Oct 7, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

If you use the right arete and bump your left hand up the crack this becomes incredibly easy except for a balancy traverse left at the end of the crack.
By Aaron Wait
Sep 25, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I really enjoyed this climb! After leading this a few separate times with a fall at the crux I became determined to send clean. Placing a cam where I wasn't trying to jam my hand and the discovery a decent left foot hold (around a foot above the horizontal) helped me get it done.