This route is a six bolt variation and direct start to the first pitch of W.A.S.P. There is a stemming/lieback crux in the shallow dihedral followed by an easier crux on the steep face just below joining the original route W.A.S.P. at the large ledge.
Start climbing up a short slab just right of the original start to W.A.S.P. Move right on the ledge then start clipping bolts while climbing up a left facing dihedral. At the top of the dihedral move right onto juggy wind sculpted face climbing on beautiful brown stone. At the large ledge follow W.A.S.P. to the top of the first pitch to finish.
Shorter climbers might find this route harder than 5.10.
The start of this route is on the southeast corner of Hornet's Nest and just right of the corridor between Horent's Nest and the Shipyard.
One 60 Meter rope will get you very close to the ground for the descent.
12 Bolts Total, A couple of longer quick draws might be wise too alleviate potential rope drag on the upper section of W.A.S.P.
|By Byron J. Hastings|
From: Mystic, SD
Nov 2, 2007
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
The first crux is reachy for me (i'm 5'6") and might be a one move 5.11-.
|By Chris treggE|
From: Madison, WI
Jul 31, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fun route. Some locals that came by as I was hanging out in the dihedral before the lower crux said it was 10c (we had no idea, just looked like a fun route). That gave me enough confidence to just go for it. I think 10c or possibly 10d is fair considering the lower crux and a spot or two up higher. As an onsight lead I thought it was well protected by South Dakota standards. Recommend it to anyone. Also, as a bonus, my directional belay biner was accidentally left behind (not blaming you, Jay, just sayin' is all) so if you want a nearly brand new Edelrid biner go for it. I could actually see the shiny biner from the Solitaire pinnacle about 100 yards away but didn't have the energy to lead Pollinator again to go get it.