The Playground Rock Climbing
Great kids cliff, even with a place to stash them ...
The Playground is a 60 foot south-facing basalt cliff. Numerous moderate to difficult crack and face climbs ascend the cliff. Routes at this area are not bolted (by agreement), so be sure to bring your gear to lead. While route bolts are strictly verboten, anchor bolts are allowed. However, the last anchor bolts to be installed (over Beginner's Hand Jam
) were chopped and few currently exist, so many climbs require trad gear to establish anchors.
Climbs are numbered from left to right with numbers as in 'Jemez Rock' and as shown in the beta photos.
To get to the Playground from NM state road 4, turn south on Rover blvd. After about 100 yards, take a left on Meadow lane. Follow this street (it will slowly curve south) passing the turnoff for the Overlook
, and continue to 719 Meadow Lane. Park near by, being careful not to block mailboxes or driveways (several residents have complained in the past). Take the public access trail between 719 and 721 Meadow Lane. From here, turn right and walk toward the rim of the canyon. Follow the rim for 300 yards and locate an approach gully with a 30 foot basalt tower on it's left side. At the bottom of this gully is the Playground.
Weather station 4.6 miles from here
42 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Playground
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Playground
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Playground:
Texas 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Cactus Climb 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
T2 Flake 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
R Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Flying A 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Blow Hole 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For The Playground
Unrelenting Nines 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a NM
: Los Alamos & White Rock
: ... : The Playground
Start with thin balancy boulder moves up to a bomber jug and then continue up a two sided overhanging finger crack to a good hand ledge. The crack then turns to a single crack that starts with hands and then into strenuous fingers to a powerful lieback directional switch (crux) to more thin fingers out the top. Mega classic! ...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
Latest Regional Forum Messages
BETA PHOTO: Middle-right portion of the Playground. Sorry abou...
BETA PHOTO: Far left side of the Playground. Someone with phot...
BETA PHOTO: Middle-left portion of the Playground. 4th route f...
BETA PHOTO: Far right side of the Playground. Beginner's hand ...
Overlook from The Playground
Mar 22, 2009
The routes from #24 on are incorrectly numbered. I assume the Beverly guide (which pretty much just copied what I did) made this mistake, which I corrected in pen on my hardcopy many years ago...
Anyway, #24 should be Unknown 5.10d, not Mr. Foster's lead. Numbers should continue from there (ie, Beginner's hand jam #29, etc)
I'll try to upload some photos...
By harry p ness 69
Apr 27, 2011
There is a route directly below the play ground, maybe a 5.10a. It goes through 2 bolts up to a nice finger crack that protects with tcu s. there are bolts at the top. It's called Code Brown
By Sky Sjue
From: Santa Fe
Apr 4, 2012
The anchor bolts are gone from Flying A, Cactus Climb and Upper Left Roof. I did not check on the status of others aside from noting that Unrelenting Nines was spared. I saw studs on Cactus Climb but it's quite impressive, as if there were never any bolts there, on Flying A.