The Ampitheater is a collection of hard face climbing (11-13s) in a small canyon.
Land of the Lost (10-12s) is further down hill from the Ampitheater. Anyone know the condition of this wall? I haven't been out there.
Drive up the 154 to West Camino Cielo. After 2 miles on West Camino Cielo, a faint trail can be seen going down through a meadow towards the ocean. The turnout is not obvious, look for other climber cars and a sharp right turn in the road.
Once you've found the trail, head down and right for ~15 minutes. The trail is more of a tunnel and if you're tall with a backpack on, its not fun.
Eventually, the trail will end at a rock wall. Go slightly left and there will be a fallen tree which assists in scrambling over the rocks. Once you are on top of the rock wall, stop and have a look around, this is where you figure out the last bit of bushwacking. See the individual areas for the rest of the approach description.
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Playground:
"The chinaman is not the issue here, Dude. Also, Dude, chinaman is not the preferred nomenclature. Asian-American, please."Climb up some good plates and edges past the first bolt and into the huge hueco. An awesome 2-finger pocket gets you established at the overhanging bulge. Pull over the bulge on good holds and make a desperate escape left onto the thin slab after the last bolt....[more]Browse More Classics in CA
By M.Morley Administrator From: Sacramento, CA Feb 28, 2006
The trick to finding the trailhead is to zero your odometer just as you exit the 154 on Kinevan Road/West Camino Cielo. Drive EXACTLY 2.5 miles (taking the W. Camino Cielo branch) to a pullout on the left and a residence on the right. The trailhead is obvious from here.
Land of the Lost should receive more attention. Super aesthetic area with, unfortunately, friable rock. The right (easiest) route is still in one piece and climbable. The left routes are quite spicey as many holds have broken. Worth TR-ing though as they are long (for SB) and sustained. I'm sure retro-bolting to match the "new" sequences would be on.