Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Beaver Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chains in the Grove [Var] S 
Climb With A View T 
Dead By 30 S 
Easy on the Beaver S 
Golden Beaver T 
Golden Beaver Left T 
Hebe S 
Hebe to CWAV [Var] S 
Highlander S 
Last Supper T 
Lessons In Yorkshire S 
Plate, The S 
Poplar Mechanics S 
Rage to Live S 
Right Tissue S 
Sparky Vision S 
Stems and Seeds T 
Trapeze T 
Trapezoid  S 
Vistacruiser T 
Zschiesche's Problem S 

The Plate 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Greg Rupp
Season: Afternoon shade
Page Views: 260
Submitted By: Alex McIntyre on Feb 27, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

The Plate is likely the worst route on the Beaver Wall. Pull off the ground on good edges past the first bolt, reach up high and clip the second, then get ready for pain. Pull down on disgustingly sharp, tiny crimps in the black rock heading left towards the plate feature. Pull some cruxy moves establishing on the plate and moving the feet up then make a big move left to another serrated edge. Move up to a bigger hold to clip the 4th bolt and move left then back right to the chains. Be careful of the fall up here, the holds are slopey and there is potential to pendulum into the corner.

This isn't the worst climb I've ever been on, but with so many high quality climbs on the wall, this one deserves to languish in obscurity.

Location 

The Plate is the rightmost bolted route on the Beaver Wall, 50 feet right of Dead By 30 and 10 feet left of a shallow corner listed as a toprope in STL2.

Protection 

4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.


Comments on The Plate Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alex McIntyre
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 27, 2014

I climb this so that others don't have to.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 28, 2014

I think it is funny you give it two stars Alex! It is the "worst route on the Beaver Wall." The worst route on this wall is still (good), which is what two stars represent on MP. You have my problem. You like climbing, everything.
By Alex McIntyre
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 28, 2014

I gave it zero stars. jbak gave it two. This one isn't very enjoyable, in my opinion. The movement isn't very interesting, the holds are basically razorblades (more so than almost any other holds on the Beaver Wall I can think of) and the line it takes isn't very inspiring to me. I do enjoy most climbing I do, but this one is pretty meh.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 28, 2014

Hey Alex,

As I look at Eric's post I'm pretty sure it was intended to be humorous and friendly. He often jokes that he loves climbing everything; his remark that you also love climbing everything doesn't seem to be derogatory. Just my take.
By Alex McIntyre
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 28, 2014

Geir,

I read Eric's comment wrong the first time to read "This is my problem with you" which would seem to fit with some correspondence we've had in the past on the topic. I've edited my reply accordingly. Thanks for the heads up.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 1, 2014

Hey Alex, I wish I had seen it pre-edit. No worries. It is hard to include a wink and a chuckle on an internet post. You have done enough around here to realize I give almost everything I have ever climbed at least one star. I didn't realize Jbak had given it two stars as I thought you had just posted it. So I would like to redirect my comment toward Jbak.

Jbak likes pulling on razorblades and eating them.
By jbak
Mar 1, 2014
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

I gave this poor little route 2 stars: one for me, and one because I think Alex hurt its feelings.

I actually think it's a decent little roped boulder problem. And strangely, I have a bit of history and funny (to me anyway) stories/memories surrounding this little problem.

I like the way those razors bite into my fat sausages. Tasty.
By Alex McIntyre
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 2, 2014

A few years ago there was a bail biner on this route and I made it my mission to snag it and send the route in the process. I ended up aid soloing the route with a grigri and aiders to retrieve it and check out the holds. I came back later with a friend and managed to take a rather large fall from the leftmost point in the traverse up high and swung hard into the corner. I gave it another run but didn't get very far (it was the middle of July, ;long before I had figured out the "sending temps" thing) and left it. Last Tuesday I was at the Beaver with Pete Piek and did it 3rd go of the day as part of a larger goal I have in mind. It wasn't as bad as I had remembered it but, as I said, didn't find it to be remarkable in any way especially considering its surroundings. I'd love to hear your history with the route jbak, maybe it could change my mind about it.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 2, 2014

Tasty LOL John.

No problem Alex, I thought you might have misread what Eric had written. :)