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Lost Boys
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The Plank 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 2,108
Submitted By: ScottH on Aug 29, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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View from the top of pitch 2

Description 

This 3 pitch route ascends the far right side of Lost Boys.

P1. Begin right of a dead tree stump. Ascend shallow broken corners to a belay under a roof. Discontinous, odd, so-so climbing, 20m. 5.9

P2. Traverse left from the belay, pull into a corner and get established on the slab above the lip (crux), then continue up easier ground to the anchor. Nice pitch. Solid 5.10a, 20m.

P3. Follow a few bolts up the easy face to the highest anchor. Somewhat runout. 5.7, 20m.

It is possible to combine P1&P2. Make judicious use of long runners near the P1 belay and also for bolts 3&4 on P1 to keep rope drag reasonable.

It is difficult to communicate with your second from the top of P2, and if the second falls low in the crux it can be quite challenging to get back on the route.

Location 

From the anchor on P3 with 2 60m ropes, rappel to the ground. Otherwise, from the P2 anchor make 2 single rope rappels-- either to the anchor above N4 (hanging and not super comfy), or the first pitch anchor of N2.

Protection 

Bolts.


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By Michael Davidson
From: San Diego, CA
Apr 17, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The crux took some thought but was very fun. Cool route on a great wall.
By Ram
Aug 27, 2013

rappelling is harder to follow the same route. but you can do one rappel if you have a 70 m rope from the second pitch. the crux was nicer. it is a solid 5.10a and exposed. falling in the crux is bad for the follower because of the rope swing, not easy to get back on to the route.
By Ryan Canfield
From: North Bend, WA
Sep 27, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Descent Suggestion: From the top, use the chain anchor and make an airy rappel directly down to the ledge with the huge dead snag (top of 'I Wanna Go Home'). There are chains here. From here make one more full 30 meter rappel to the base. Much easier and more cozier than the option that the guidebook suggests.
By gregman
Jul 10, 2014

Definitely rap directly down from the anchors of the 5.7 to the top of the multi-pitch 5.11 route, will save you significant pains of trying to rap down the route itself. From there, a 60m rope will just barely hit the ground, so only two rap's will be necessary.

The 5.10a has an obvious crux on the slab face with some fairly significant exposure, but has quite a few options for passing through it, so don't hesitate to try a few different things while on lead.

There can be some road noise on the 2nd and 3rd pitches, so ensure you have alternative communication options setup with your belayer, just in case.

Also, don't skip the third pitch! Although it's 5.7, it's even more exposed than the second pitch, and you get a beautiful view of the valley with some actually interesting slab moves (albeit there are tons of holds).
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Nov 4, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

There is some razor sharp rock on this route, use long slings to help with the rope dragging over the rock.