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Lost Boys
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I Can Fly! 
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Plank, The 
Seize the Day 
Sleep or Awake? 

The Plank 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
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Submitted By: ScottH on Aug 29, 2006
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View from the top of pitch 2

Description 

This 3 pitch route ascends the far right side of Lost Boys.

P1. Begin right of a dead tree stump. Ascend shallow broken corners to a belay under a roof. Discontinous, odd, so-so climbing, 20m. 5.9

P2. Traverse left from the belay, pull into a corner and get established on the slab above the lip (crux), then continue up easier ground to the anchor. Nice pitch. Solid 5.10a, 20m.

P3. Follow a few bolts up the easy face to the highest anchor. Somewhat runout. 5.7, 20m.

It is possible to combine P1&P2. Make judicious use of long runners near the P1 belay and also for bolts 3&4 on P1 to keep rope drag reasonable.

It is difficult to communicate with your second from the top of P2, and if the second falls low in the crux it can be quite challenging to get back on the route.


Location 

From the anchor on P3 with 2 60m ropes, rappel to the ground. Otherwise, from the P2 anchor make 2 single rope rappels-- either to the anchor above N4 (hanging and not super comfy), or the first pitch anchor of N2.


Protection 

Bolts.



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By Michael Davidson
From: San Diego, CA
Apr 17, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

The crux took some thought but was very fun. Cool route on a great wall.

By Ram
Aug 27, 2013

rappelling is harder to follow the same route. but you can do one rappel if you have a 70 m rope from the second pitch. the crux was nicer. it is a solid 5.10a and exposed. falling in the crux is bad for the follower because of the rope swing, not easy to get back on to the route.

By Ryan Canfield
From: North Bend, WA
Sep 27, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Descent Suggestion: From the top, use the chain anchor and make an airy rappel directly down to the ledge with the huge dead snag (top of 'I Wanna Go Home'). There are chains here. From here make one more full 30 meter rappel to the base. Much easier and more cozier than the option that the guidebook suggests.