Type: Sport, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches
FA: Scott Ayers, Mark Hathaway (1992)
Page Views: 4,228 total · 23/month
Shared By: Luke Bertelsen on Feb 23, 2009
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Possibly the best sport 5.11 on the mountain, and that is not a designation that gets tossed about lightly.  From bottom to top this climb has amazing climbing in almost every style you could want.  Commonly people will just do the great first pitch, but there is definitely more great climbing to be had on the upper pitches as well.  DO THIS CLIMB !

Pitch 1 - The money pitch for sure.  Start with the tricky slab that is a barrier to entry for some people.  As the wall steepens to vertical you will navigate cracks and corners that continue to change sides up to a fun and short roof sequence that you pull on good holds.  Exit left if you are continuing upward and straight up to an anchor made from Metolius rapp hangers if you're just climbing the first pitch.

Pitch 2 - A short left trending pitch climbed on large holds.  Great movement, but unfortunately over too quickly.  Commonly linked with the third pitch.

Pitch 3 - A wonderful and thought provoking technical pitch taking you to the top of the formation.  Two variations exist here with an obvious branching point 2/3 of the way up.  The left variation is slightly harder, but both are in the 5.11 range. 

This climb should be on every Mount Lemmon climbers to-do list.   

Location Suggest change

Just right of a bolted arete (War of the Worlds).

Protection Suggest change

Bolts and chains

Photos

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