|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 220'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||R. Briggs, R. Candelaria, 1976|
|Submitted By:||Mark Tarrant on Feb 20, 2004|
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|Comments on The Pitts||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By steve dieckhoff
Dec 14, 2004
|This is an excellent route. I believe it has been soloed by Eric Goukas.|
By Rich Farnham
Sep 6, 2009
Fantastic climb! The first pitch of Bell Air is a nice pitch in its own right, and gets you up to this cool crack.
I'll post a few pictures of the route, but this is a hard route to photograph. The pictures distort what the climbing is all about. This is an overhanging, right-leaning crack that involves gymnastic climbing (i.e. not a plug-and-chug steep handcrack). The movement reminded me of Death and Transfiguration, albeit much shorter.
The pro is a little strange until you are established in the crack, but if you look around you can keep it safe. I was very happy to have a red metolius TCU (1.5 Fr. size) to place in a small pocket at the start of the bulge. Doubles on .75-2 Camalots were nice.
It's not obvious what to do when the main crack peters out. Another crack angles right, or it looks like you can rock left onto the slab. I went right and found great climbing. Moving right was one of the cruxes of the route, but it felt like this is where the route goes. The slab would go, but would probably be runout, and looked covered in lichen.
2 rap bolts at the top (i.e. no rings). This would be a hard route to set a TR on without a lot of directionals.
I cannot comprehend soloing this route. Bad-ass.