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Buttress of Cracks - Left Side
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Arcy Farcy T 
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Bluebeard T 
Bocomaru T 
Buccaneer, The T 
Captain Hook T 
Double Exposure T 
Double Exposure Direct T 
Frustration T 
Ham Sandwich T 
Hernia - Direct Finish T 
Hernia, The T 
Insomnia T 
Pass Time T 
Pirate, The T 
Swashbuckler T 
Sword of Damocles T 
Walk the Plank T 
Winter Solstice T 

The Pirate 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Pat Callis & Larry Reynolds, June 1967, FFA: Tony Yaniro, 1978
Page Views: 11,718
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 28, 2006

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Kris ticked The Pirate. Bruce Bourassa clicked the...

Description 

This striking thin crack testpiece up a smooth 85 degree slab was originally done as an aid climb and just over a decade later freed, in 1978, by a 16 year old Tony Yaniro (wearing EB's) who went on to climb the Grand Illusion near Lake Tahoe the following year. The climb saw no repeats until sticky rubber-soled Fire's hit the U.S. market around 1982.

Even in this era of big numbers this still is a challenging route that seldom sees a free ascent, especially on lead. Equinox at nearby Joshua Tree, while rated only slightly easier, is a much easier tick.

P1) A combination of tip jams and face moves down low gain the security of a knob, conveniently located next to the crack, above which the difficulty eases (5.11) and the crack opens up to accept better locks. Near the top of the first pitch traverse slightly right to a bolted belay; thin fingers or a lack of feeling in your fingers is a plus on this pitch. P2) Back left into the crack and up the moderate (5.9) crack to the top. It's also possible to do this all in one pitch if so inclined. Belay atop Double Exposure and then descend the backside.

The first pitch is often popular to practice clean aid (C2) and is often attempted on toprope by climbing The Buccaneer to access the anchors.

Location 

Just right of Double Exposure's sharp arete.

Protection 

pro to 2" (include many thin nuts), bolted anchors


Photos of The Pirate Slideshow Add Photo
Great photo by Damon Corso of Michael Reardon on t...
Great photo by Damon Corso of Michael Reardon on t...
The Pirate
The Pirate
Not the best choice for July - very slippery feet....
Not the best choice for July - very slippery feet....
The Pirate (5.12d)
BETA PHOTO: The Pirate (5.12d)
Johnny Woodward on the cover of Climbing doing The...
Johnny Woodward on the cover of Climbing doing The...
The first two finger "locks" are given. ...
BETA PHOTO: The first two finger "locks" are given. ...
drooling yet?  The perfect 5.10 fingers above the ...
drooling yet? The perfect 5.10 fingers above the ...
Aid climbing the ol' pirate.  C2 with lotsa small ...
Aid climbing the ol' pirate. C2 with lotsa small ...

Comments on The Pirate Add Comment
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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
May 25, 2007

Soloed by Michael Reardon
By Adam Kimmerly
Oct 22, 2007

An incredible route with amazing climbing. Hard and insecure. This is one I'll be going back to work on. Continuous, hard movement for the first 40 feet of climbing with a nearly indistinguishable crux somewhere around the black knob.
By Bruce Diffenbaugh
From: Cheyenne,Wyoming
Feb 7, 2008

After Yaniro's FFA this route was rarely lead for years. Fact is I never have seen it done. A for sure hardman route. Very thin!!! A trophy tick.
By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Feb 7, 2014

Johny Woodward is climbing The Pirate on the cover of Climbing magazine #104. Like Adam Stackhouse said, Michael Reardon free soloed this on July 12, 2006. Reardon reported that the first crux is in Zone 2-an ankle breaker, and the second crux is Zone 3-a trip to the morgue for sure. He also said that when he first tried the route a few years before his solo, the bottom crux was impossible, but later he never had a problem. Michael trained for this solo both physically and mentally. On the solo, it is not possible to traverse right (5.9) to the belay at the end of the first pitch. Being ropeless, Reardon had to push straight up on 5.11b climbing and skip the 5.9 traverse to the belay.