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The Pipe Dream

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Buddha's Belly S 
Dang Awesome S 
Deliverance S 
Diggler S 
Don't Mess With Confianza S 
Don't Mess With Texas S 
Dry Spunk S 
Dry Times S 
Ego Boost S 
Eulogy S 
Excavation S 
Great Feast, The S 
Kama Sutra Bicycle S 
La Confienza S 
Le Spunk S 
Long Present S 
Mexican Rodeo S 
Millennium S 
Mutton Bustin S 
Orgasmo S 
PipeDream S 
Rodeo Clown S 
Rucksack Wanderer S 
Solstice S 
Sprout S 
Squeel Like A Pig S 
SuperSpunk S 
T-Rex S 
Take it for the Team S 
Toxic Potatoes S 
Toxic Tomatoes S 
Toxic Turkey S 
Toxic Watermelon S 
Wake and Bake S 
Waterfall Route S 
Whole Shot S 
Wyoming Sheep Shagger S 

The Pipe Dream Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 39.5657, -111.6964 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 24,338
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Archer on Aug 18, 2004
Forecast:
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View from the back of the cave looking out across ...

Description 

Located at the top of the Right Hand Fork of Maple Canyon, the Pipe Dream cave is one of the premier venues of steep, hard climbing in Maple Canyon. The Pipe Dream is a large, shady, cave offering everything from gently overhanging 5.11 and 5.12 classics to numerous mind-bogglingly steep, power-endurance routes from 5.13 on up. A great place to beat the heat in the summer, no trip to Maple is complete without a visit to the Pipe Dream. The cave receives little sun due to its unrelenting horizontality, and the majority of the steep routes are in the shade all day. What little sun the cave receives occurs in the morning, and hits the routes on the left and far right side of the cave. These routes are usualy in the shade by around 11 am.

Getting There 

The trailhead is located at a small pull-out big enough for two cars on the west side of the road. (The right hand side as you head uphill). Hike up the trail for approximately 20-25 minutes. Approximately 10 minutes after passing Damascus Gate, you'll see the top of the Pipe Dream through the trees on the left.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.4 miles from here

37 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',4],['5.11',9],['5.12',4],['5.13',16],['>=5.14',4],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Pipe Dream

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Pipe Dream:
Toxic Watermelon   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Buddha's Belly   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Kama Sutra Bicycle   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 80'   
Toxic Potatoes   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Excavation   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Solstice   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Dry Spunk   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 85'   
Wake and Bake   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Le Spunk   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   
Dry Times   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 90'   
Orgasmo   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 90'   
Deliverance   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Rucksack Wanderer   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport   
Diggler   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 70'   
SuperSpunk   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 100'   
Sprout   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 90'   
La Confienza   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Squeel Like A Pig   5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
The Great Feast   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 95'   
Toxic Turkey   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Pipe Dream

Featured Route For The Pipe Dream
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike P on Toxic Turkey.

Toxic Turkey 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a  UT : Maple Canyon : ... : The Pipe Dream
This route starts on two large holds about 35 feet from the right side of the Pipe Dream cave proper. Twenty feet of slightly pumpy 5.11 climbing brings you to the base of the massive roof. From here every move is about V3, and the hard part is dealing with the crippling pump that grows with every bolt you pass. If you make it to the lip of the cave, rest up, and endure another 25 feet of 5.11+ endurance climbing.Unfortunately, due to the nature of the rock, and some aggressive cleaning tacti...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of The Pipe Dream Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pipe Dream Cave viewed from the back and through t...
BETA PHOTO: Pipe Dream Cave viewed from the back and through t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Right Climber - 5.11d Wake and Bake Middle Climber...
Right Climber - 5.11d Wake and Bake Middle Climber...
Rock Climbing Photo: Panoramic Shot from deep in Cave
Panoramic Shot from deep in Cave
Rock Climbing Photo: surprisingly huge cave near pipe dream
surprisingly huge cave near pipe dream
Rock Climbing Photo: T-rex
T-rex
Rock Climbing Photo: unknown climber on... unknown route (13a i think.....
unknown climber on... unknown route (13a i think.....
Rock Climbing Photo: Fixed draws galore, you could give a 2 year old a ...
Fixed draws galore, you could give a 2 year old a ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Kirsten and Dave!
Kirsten and Dave!
Rock Climbing Photo: unknown climber on the diggler
unknown climber on the diggler
Rock Climbing Photo: cave off to the left of the pipe dream
cave off to the left of the pipe dream
Rock Climbing Photo: Sprout (.13a) from inside the cave  dcranephoto.co...
Sprout (.13a) from inside the cave dcranephoto.co...
Rock Climbing Photo: pipe dream profile
pipe dream profile
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the back - climber falls on Wake and Bak...
View from the back - climber falls on Wake and Bak...

Comments on The Pipe Dream Add Comment
Show which comments
By JH1
Dec 2, 2011
Here is a topo to the Pipe Dream Cave

Have fun!

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