The Pipe Dream Rock Climbing
View from the back of the cave looking out across ...
Located at the top of the Right Hand Fork of Maple Canyon, the Pipe Dream cave is one of the premier venues of steep, hard climbing in Maple Canyon. The Pipe Dream is a large, shady, cave offering everything from gently overhanging 5.11 and 5.12 classics to numerous mind-bogglingly steep, power-endurance routes from 5.13 on up. A great place to beat the heat in the summer, no trip to Maple is complete without a visit to the Pipe Dream. The cave receives little sun due to its unrelenting horizontality, and the majority of the steep routes are in the shade all day. What little sun the cave receives occurs in the morning, and hits the routes on the left and far right side of the cave. These routes are usualy in the shade by around 11 am.
The trailhead is located at a small pull-out big enough for two cars on the west side of the road. (The right hand side as you head uphill). Hike up the trail for approximately 20-25 minutes. Approximately 10 minutes after passing Damascus Gate, you'll see the top of the Pipe Dream through the trees on the left.
Weather station 6.4 miles from here
37 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Pipe Dream
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Pipe Dream
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Pipe Dream:
Excavation 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Solstice 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Dry Spunk 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 85'
Le Spunk 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, 60'
Dry Times 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport, 90'
Orgasmo 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 90'
Deliverance 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Diggler 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport, 70'
Sprout 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport, 90'
Featured Route For The Pipe Dream
Toxic Turkey 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a UT
: Maple Canyon
: ... : The Pipe Dream
This route starts on two large holds about 35 feet from the right side of the Pipe Dream cave proper. Twenty feet of slightly pumpy 5.11 climbing brings you to the base of the massive roof. From here every move is about V3, and the hard part is dealing with the crippling pump that grows with every bolt you pass. If you make it to the lip of the cave, rest up, and endure another 25 feet of 5.11+ endurance climbing.Unfortunately, due to the nature of the rock, and some aggressive cleaning tacti...[more] Browse More Classics in UT