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Located at the top of the Right Hand Fork of Maple Canyon, the Pipe Dream cave is one of the premier venues of steep, hard climbing in Maple Canyon. The Pipe Dream is a large, shady, cave offering everything from gently overhanging 5.11 and 5.12 classics to numerous mind-bogglingly steep, power-endurance routes from 5.13 on up. A great place to beat the heat in the summer, no trip to Maple is complete without a visit to the Pipe Dream. The cave receives little sun due to its unrelenting horizontality, and the majority of the steep routes are in the shade all day. What little sun the cave receives occurs in the morning, and hits the routes on the left and far right side of the cave. These routes are usualy in the shade by around 11 am.
The trailhead is located at a small pull-out big enough for two cars on the west side of the road. (The right hand side as you head uphill). Hike up the trail for approximately 20-25 minutes. Approximately 10 minutes after passing Damascus Gate, you'll see the top of the Pipe Dream through the trees on the left.
36 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in The Pipe Dream
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Pipe Dream:
Toxic Watermelon 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Buddha's Belly 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Kama Sutra Bicycle 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Sport, 80'
Toxic Potatoes 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Excavation 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Solstice 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Dry Spunk 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Sport, 85'
Le Spunk 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Sport, 60'
Wake and Bake 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Dry Times 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b Sport, 90'
Orgasmo 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b Sport, 90'
Deliverance 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Rucksack Wanderer 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b Sport
SuperSpunk 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c Sport, 100'
Sprout 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c Sport, 90'
Diggler 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c Sport, 70'
La Confienza 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Squeel Like A Pig 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- E7 7a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Toxic Turkey 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- E7 7a Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Featured Route For The Pipe Dream
Millennium 5.13d 8b 31 X E8 7a UT : Maple Canyon : ... : The Pipe Dream
Starts at the very back of the cave. Begins with long moves between positive albeit slopey holds and ok feet to the 4th bolt where you can cop a quick shake before wrestling through a watermelon-sized cobble (look for a knee bar here to make this a little easier). From here, the angle kicks back to horizontal and all underclings take you to a double knee bar rest. This has been said to be a 13b or so to the double knee bars. From this rest, start out with juggy moves to another ok rest. Fro...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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