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The Pinnacle (in Huntington Ravine) Decent Options
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By Dave Schultz
From Everett, Washington
May 14, 2012
Trap Dike

Hi Everyone,

I am planning on climbing the NE Ridge on the Pinnacle in Huntington Ravine and was wondering what the best descent option(s)are. I will be doing it as a day trip from start to finish from the parking lot at Pinkham (so no bivy/overnight anywhere en route). I plan on going this coming weekend.

Thanks,

Dave


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By Bill Sacks
From Sacramento, CA
May 14, 2012
Chapel Pond

I climbed up Pinnacle, hit the summit, and then descended via Central Gully.

TR here: nobolts.blogspot.com/2012/03/3102012-pinnacle-gully.html]]no>>>


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By KevinF
From Granby, CT
May 14, 2012

I certainly wouldn't descend any of the gullies other than in winter. Tons of loose rock.

It's a pretty quick hike over to the Lions Head trail, which I would say is the best option. Or you could do the Huntington Ravine Trail (steep), or Tuckermans, or a number of other trails. The distances to any of your descent options aren't all that far, so just pick a trail you want to hike.


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By Bill Sacks
From Sacramento, CA
May 14, 2012
Chapel Pond

KevinF wrote:
I certainly wouldn't descend any of the gullies other than in winter. Tons of loose rock. It's a pretty quick hike over to the Lions Head trail, which I would say is the best option. Or you could do the Huntington Ravine Trail (steep), or Tuckermans, or a number of other trails. The distances to any of your descent options aren't all that far, so just pick a trail you want to hike.


Good point. Forgot that I did it in the winter. Conditions are much different now.


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By David Ford
From Cambridge, MA
May 14, 2012

Tuckerman's is not really a good option right now due to the snow conditions over there (crevasses and severe undermining). Always a good idea to read what the Snow Rangers have to say:
Mt. Washington Avalanche Center

I think the Lion's head is definitely your best option. Safer and not that much slower than the Huntington Ravine Trail if you're going back to Pinkham anyways.


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By john strand
From southern colo
May 14, 2012

You guys are whacked !- pay your $$$, drive up the road, do the climb and them saunter back to the car.


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By Bob A
May 15, 2012

Agree with Strand here.Pay at the auto road(open at 7:30),drive up to the 6.5 mile mark(plenty of parking),"hike" down the Huntington ravine trail(steep) to the base(45 minutes),do the climb(around 5-6 pitches),walk back up to car(1/2 hour).Then drive down,eat lunch and go to Cathedral and climb in the afternoon!


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By John Halupowski
From Intervale, N.H.
May 15, 2012

Driving up the road is my favorite option cuz you can stash a cooler of beer at the top of the climb and its a quick walk down the Huntington Ravine Trail.


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By focus
May 15, 2012
High on Cathedral Peak, Tuolumne

Dave -
report back conditions if you think of it. I may do it next weekend as well as Henderson Ridge.

Have fun, that's always a good day in the mountains.


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By Eric Engberg
May 15, 2012

john strand wrote:
You guys are whacked !- pay your $$$, drive up the road, do the climb and them saunter back to the car.



You would need quite a few $$$ to do that today as you'd have to pay the plow to go first.

What is with the reading comprehension here? Guy says he wants to do the NE Ridge now. First response is about doing the gully in winter. then advice for doing it in summer. He is doing it NOW. there will still be snow/ice at the base of the Pinnacle. Tuckerman's trail is closed at the headwall and there is still significant snow on Tuckerman's. Bugs will be out. Rock will be wet. lovely.


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By John Halupowski
From Intervale, N.H.
May 19, 2012

The auto road IS open now all the way to the summit 8am to 5pm. Plowing has already been done. Pinnacle Buttress does have alpine conditions but that's why you go there in the first place. Bugs shouldn't an issue.


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By Dave Schultz
From Everett, Washington
May 21, 2012
Trap Dike

Hi Everyone,

Post trip report. Central Gulley seemed too sketch to descent, so we ended up with a LONG hike down and around via Lion's Head, then back up (more than 2 hrs). The route was immaculate. Very little loose rock, lots of 5.fun climbing, the 5.8 variation was fantastic, and the fairytail traverse was completely worth it. I would say the gear is not that great on the traverse, though. There was NO snow or ice as all. There were a few tat rap/belay stations (two, I believe). Very worth while route. And having the car on the auto road (even with the LONG initial hike) was worth it.

Thanks,

Dave


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By Bob A
May 22, 2012

Dave,
Glad you got up there.If it was anytime in the last four days ,I would say the weather does not get any better.
Cool that you found the fairy tale traverse also.I missed it my first time and have done it that way ever since.The gear gets a bit thin partway across but that foot travrse is pretty easy if you keep your balance.I wouldn't want to fall there!

Bob


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By john strand
From southern colo
May 22, 2012

Nice- if you get up there again, try henderson. Much easier though still worth it and a good solo or rope up and try some of the harder variations


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