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The Phantom Menace 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Darren Knezek
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,832
Submitted By: Darren Knezek on Apr 28, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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Unknown climber leading "Phantom Menace."...

Description 

I really like this climb. It's a sport climb, but feels like a trad route. When you stop and think about it no move feels harder than 5.5. That's as long as you stem up the corner properly. 5.7's on limestone usually aren't this fun or thought provoking. It climbs up and to the right, ending in the right side of the roof.

"Remember, concentrate on the moment. Feel, don't think. Trust your instincts."-Qui-Gon Jinn from The Phantom Menace.

You may feel like leading parts of this climb on cams and nuts. I wouldn't. The start has a corner that would vibrate whenever I struck my hammer to it. The rock to the left was solid, but the corner to the right sounded hollow. At the crux near the 5th or 6th bolt, you pull a roof. Normally I would put the bolt right above the roof for a nice clean fall. The roof sounded hollow but wouldn't budge with a pry bar. That doesn't mean it wouldn't come off in a fall with a cam placed behind it. After placing said bolt I whipped on it a few times to make sure the fall was safe.

Location 

This is the large left-facing corner under the huge roof to the right of the large arch.

Protection 

7 bolts and anchors.


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By Bad Sock Puppet
May 22, 2009

This one is a good warm-up, but seems a little technical in the middle for a 5.7. But that's just my two cents.
By Eric Godfrey
From: slc, ut
May 27, 2009

Maybe I didn't "stem up the corner properly," because I thought this felt a little harder than 5.7 as well. Very fun for the grade.
By Adam Wilson
From: Provo, UT
May 29, 2009

Spoiler alert: work the down pressure! If it feels hard than 6ish, look for a hidden hold, or better feet.
By Dylan Gene
From: Napa, CA
Jun 16, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Awesome and fun route. Definitely use your stemming skills, then pull over the roof.
By Matt Park
Jun 13, 2011

This one is fun but I agree, feels a bit harder than a 7 especially if you don't stem
By Kenny Clark
From: State College, PA
Jul 2, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

It seems like this is a little height dependent to be a 5.7/8. I was always able to reach the holds and clip the bolts, but my wife is 5'5", and had to do some technical face moves to get past some parts. Overall, I feel like it's a great climb, with a lot of fun movement on it.
By Sam Cannon
From: Holladay, Utah
May 4, 2012

I've been lead climbing for just two weeks now and moved off of The Appendage and Layer Cakes (some 5.7s and 5.8s)to do this route - which was a lot of fun. I found this to be a great "next route" after spending a lot of time practicing clipping on Appendage's shorter routes. Well worth the approach and a good route for novice lead climbers with some experience.
By Tyson Taylor
Jun 8, 2012

If it were granite or sandstone, it would be a classic trad 5.7.

It's not much harder, but it involves unique movements that are rare for the grade on bolted routes. It feels very traditional.
By Sam Cannon
From: Holladay, Utah
May 30, 2015

It would be very possible to lead this route on gear, and would be quite fun to do so. I'd bring a set of nuts with a few extra mid sized, and a single set of cams up to maybe a #2 C4. You wouldn't use that many, but I think that's what I noticed in the size range.
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