Climb the SE face.
2.8 miles past the Courthouse Bridge, on the left.
Lots of "stuff" see Eric's Book
Photo: Todd Gordon collection.
Photo; Todd Gordon Collection
From: Joshua Tree, California
May 5, 2007
Eric's book says friends #2 through #3 1/2, tri-cams 32 1/2, #3, rocks # 6 through #8, 6 long bugaboos, 2 standard angles, and one each of 1", 1 1/2', and 2 baby angles (1/2" and 3/8"). We took no tri-cams...(AKA butt-cams)...but I did use a number of pins. I remember one section where I was really struggling with the gear and which of 3 difficult short crack sections to take.....I think I tried all three, and finally got through this tricky section some-how....(Which took awhile and was frustrating, but rewarding once I DID figure it out...). The aid is rated A2+;....which I find to be plenty tricky enough for me. I believe the climb is plenty safe enough, and it's not all that long too. It's a funky -looking weenie for sure, and challenging to climb. I enjoyed myself on this climb. I don't think it gets done all that much; sure is a striking formation from the road. It's got a short approach, and it's a great adventure.
|By Mark P Thomas|
Nov 8, 2011
Considering the Park's restrictions on pitons now, does anyone know if this route has been done clean? Clean rating & rack?