Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The Phallus
Select Route:
Phallus, The T 
SW Face T 

The Phallus 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A2+

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 90', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A2+ [details]
FA: Peter Geyser
Page Views: 1,648
Submitted By: toddgordon on Apr 30, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Todd Gordon on The Phallus

  • Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park MORE INFO >>>
  • RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Climb the SE face.

    Location 

    2.8 miles past the Courthouse Bridge, on the left.

    Protection 

    Lots of "stuff" see Eric's Book


    Photos of The Phallus Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The Phallus. Photo: Todd Gordon collection.
    The Phallus. Photo: Todd Gordon collection.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Photo;  Todd Gordon Collection
    Photo; Todd Gordon Collection

    Comments on The Phallus Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By toddgordon
    From: Joshua Tree, California
    May 5, 2007

    Eric's book says friends #2 through #3 1/2, tri-cams 32 1/2, #3, rocks # 6 through #8, 6 long bugaboos, 2 standard angles, and one each of 1", 1 1/2', and 2 baby angles (1/2" and 3/8"). We took no tri-cams...(AKA butt-cams)...but I did use a number of pins. I remember one section where I was really struggling with the gear and which of 3 difficult short crack sections to take.....I think I tried all three, and finally got through this tricky section some-how....(Which took awhile and was frustrating, but rewarding once I DID figure it out...). The aid is rated A2+;....which I find to be plenty tricky enough for me. I believe the climb is plenty safe enough, and it's not all that long too. It's a funky -looking weenie for sure, and challenging to climb. I enjoyed myself on this climb. I don't think it gets done all that much; sure is a striking formation from the road. It's got a short approach, and it's a great adventure.
    By Mark P Thomas
    From: Oakland
    Nov 8, 2011

    Considering the Park's restrictions on pitons now, does anyone know if this route has been done clean? Clean rating & rack?
    By Darren Knezek
    Nov 8, 2011

    mountainproject.com/v/sw-face/...

    The Definitive
    Climbing Resource

    Inspiration & Motivation
    to Fuel Your Run

    Next Generation Mountain
    Bike Trail Maps

    Backcountry, Sidecountry
    & Secret Stashes

    Better Data. Better Tools.
    Better Hikes!