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The Phallus
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Phallus, The T 
SW Face T 

The Phallus 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A2+

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 90', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A2+ [details]
FA: Peter Geyser
Page Views: 1,397
Submitted By: toddgordon on Apr 30, 2007

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Todd Gordon on The Phallus

Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb the SE face.

Location 

2.8 miles past the Courthouse Bridge, on the left.

Protection 

Lots of "stuff" see Eric's Book


Photos of The Phallus Slideshow Add Photo
The Phallus. <br />Photo: Todd Gordon collection.
The Phallus. Photo: Todd Gordon collection.
Photo;  Todd Gordon Collection
Photo; Todd Gordon Collection

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By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
May 5, 2007

Eric's book says friends #2 through #3 1/2, tri-cams 32 1/2, #3, rocks # 6 through #8, 6 long bugaboos, 2 standard angles, and one each of 1", 1 1/2', and 2 baby angles (1/2" and 3/8"). We took no tri-cams...(AKA butt-cams)...but I did use a number of pins. I remember one section where I was really struggling with the gear and which of 3 difficult short crack sections to take.....I think I tried all three, and finally got through this tricky section some-how....(Which took awhile and was frustrating, but rewarding once I DID figure it out...). The aid is rated A2+;....which I find to be plenty tricky enough for me. I believe the climb is plenty safe enough, and it's not all that long too. It's a funky -looking weenie for sure, and challenging to climb. I enjoyed myself on this climb. I don't think it gets done all that much; sure is a striking formation from the road. It's got a short approach, and it's a great adventure.
By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Nov 8, 2011

Considering the Park's restrictions on pitons now, does anyone know if this route has been done clean? Clean rating & rack?
By Darren Knezek
Nov 8, 2011

mountainproject.com/v/sw-face/...