|Type:||Trad, Alpine, Grade III|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA:||Tim and Larry Coats|
|Submitted By:||paco on Jan 24, 2002|
|Comments on The Pew||Add Comment|
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By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Jul 12, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Of the five 5.9s on Cathedral, I found this one to have the most difficult route finding. Every pitch appeared to have 2-3 lines to the next belay. The climbing was very time consuming, since you often place gear in a short crack and then face climb back and forth to keep the climbing on good rock and near the intended grade. I had the feeling of being off and on route the whole time I was climbing.
You don't need a double set of small nuts, since I only placed maybe 3-4 nuts per pitch. It might be nice to have two sets of different types of small nuts to get the perfect placement, though. A triple "0" TCU cam in handy a few times.