Named after the majestic Peuterey Ridge on Mt Blanc... The ridge has little majestic climbing after all its only the Sandstone Alps ! Given three stars for it being a fun climb in a nice setting with great views.To get to the start keep on the flat until directly below the ridge then hike steeply up to the top of the wave.
P1)Easy climbing up to the foot of the corner and double anchors. 60' 5.3.
P2)Climb the groove to the roof past one bolt and some cam placements then left to where the ridge flattens. Here one will pass rap anchors for descent. 60' 5.7.
P3) About 600' of 4th class to where the ridge steepens below a chossy gully.
P4)Enter the small gully and exit right up to the start of the perfect rock on the final buttress. One can take a natural belay here (60')or continue about 70' to the summit passing cam, stopper placements and one bolt .130' 5.4. A stance was taken behind the summit block.
Register under small cairn.
Rap anchors on the summit block. Rap the route.
Camp at the end of the Two Finger Canyon road. Hike south for about 30 mins to One Finger Canyon keeping on the flats. Walk up to just before the entrance of the canyon then hike up to the left...continue keeping low until the obvious Ridge comes into view.
Cams 1/4" to 2.5" Stoppers. Might just need one 60m rope for descent.
Tele Photo..Climber on the 4th class section.Below...
BETA PHOTO: A) The Peuterey Ridge. 5.7 B)Its only Rock and Rol...
Near the top of the ridge tower
Looking up to the start of the climb.
Shingo on the summit belay.
Paul top of P1
On the final tower
Shingo starting the corner P2
Tele photo...Ross at the end of the ridge. photo A...
Higher on P2
Camp.....With the Jolly Green Giant
|By John Evans|
Oct 31, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
My wife and I climbed this as our last route of a fun Eastern Reef long weekend. We enjoyed the approach hike witch took about 45 minutes or so of generally flat walking. Very enjoyable pitches of climbing, with the last very well positioned and topping out on a pointy little summit with room for one. Maybe the second ascent?
Nov 4, 2013
Could be the second .. Glad you had fun ..