Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
U Crags
Select Route:
End Game 
Its Only Rock and Roll 
Peuterey Ridge, The 
Return of the King 
Second Time's the Charm 

The Peuterey Ridge 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 800', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Shingo Ohkawa, Paul Ross, April 16th 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 396
Submitted By: USBRIT on Apr 21, 2012
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Moving up to the final tower out of the small gull...

Description 

Named after the majestic Peuterey Ridge on Mt Blanc... The ridge has little majestic climbing after all its only the Sandstone Alps ! Given three stars for it being a fun climb in a nice setting with great views.To get to the start keep on the flat until directly below the ridge then hike steeply up to the top of the wave.

P1)Easy climbing up to the foot of the corner and double anchors. 60' 5.3.
P2)Climb the groove to the roof past one bolt and some cam placements then left to where the ridge flattens. Here one will pass rap anchors for descent. 60' 5.7.
P3) About 600' of 4th class to where the ridge steepens below a chossy gully.
P4)Enter the small gully and exit right up to the start of the perfect rock on the final buttress. One can take a natural belay here (60')or continue about 70' to the summit passing cam, stopper placements and one bolt .130' 5.4. A stance was taken behind the summit block.
Register under small cairn.
Rap anchors on the summit block. Rap the route.


Location 

Camp at the end of the Two Finger Canyon road. Hike south for about 30 mins to One Finger Canyon keeping on the flats. Walk up to just before the entrance of the canyon then hike up to the left...continue keeping low until the obvious Ridge comes into view.


Protection 

Cams 1/4" to 2.5" Stoppers. Might just need one 60m rope for descent.



Photos of The Peuterey Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Tele Photo..Climber on the 4th class section.Below the final tower. Photo Andy Ross
Tele Photo..Climber on the 4th class section.Below...
A) The Peuterey Ridge. 5.7 B)Its only Rock and Roll.5.9
BETA PHOTO: A) The Peuterey Ridge. 5.7 B)Its only Rock and Rol...
Near the top of the ridge tower
Near the top of the ridge tower
Looking up to the start of the climb.
Looking up to the start of the climb.
Shingo on the summit belay.
Shingo on the summit belay.
Paul top of P1
Paul top of P1
On the final tower
On the final tower
Shingo starting the corner P2
Shingo starting the corner P2
Tele photo...Ross at the end of the ridge. photo Andy Ross
Tele photo...Ross at the end of the ridge. photo A...
Higher on P2
Higher on P2
Camp.....With the Jolly Green Giant
Camp.....With the Jolly Green Giant
Comments on The Peuterey Ridge Add Comment
Show which comments
By John Evans
Oct 31, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

My wife and I climbed this as our last route of a fun Eastern Reef long weekend. We enjoyed the approach hike witch took about 45 minutes or so of generally flat walking. Very enjoyable pitches of climbing, with the last very well positioned and topping out on a pointy little summit with room for one. Maybe the second ascent?

By USBRIT
From: Cumbria.UK
Nov 4, 2013

Could be the second .. Glad you had fun ..