Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Sun Wall Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
First Crux T 
Perfect Lie Back, The T 
Sun Wall Left T,TR 
Sun Wall Middle T 
Sun Wall Right T,TR 

The Perfect Lie Back 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bill Griffin
Page Views: 4,759
Submitted By: Rick D on Apr 3, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Matt laying it back

Description 

If you walked up the sandy approach trail, this route will be just on your right. The first half is lie backing up a slab. The crack turns verticle at half way point, this is were the crux is.

Location 

This is to the east of the alcove area's and to the west of the sun wall

Protection 

Gear to 2". Chains at the top.


Photos of The Perfect Lie Back Slideshow Add Photo
"Oh, that's right."
"Oh, that's right."
The oppositional body pressure just don't stop
The oppositional body pressure just don't stop
YIP
YIP
"Hmmm, how does this go again?"
"Hmmm, how does this go again?"
Yes, it's perfect
Yes, it's perfect
A phat rest
A phat rest
Surgeon General says: liebacking is good for your health! <br /> <br />All photos by Karsten <br />April 2010
Surgeon General says: liebacking is good for your ...
You can layback and jam at the same time.  That is, like, right up there with sex, isn't it? <br /> <br />(Ok, maybe it is just jamming going on, but it is good stuff!)
You can layback and jam at the same time. That is...
The Perfect Lieback
The Perfect Lieback
Lucas enjoying a perfect lay back.
Lucas enjoying a perfect lay back.

Comments on The Perfect Lie Back Add Comment
Show which comments
By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 26, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I found the crux to be the start.

Takes mainly #.4-2 Camalots and I used a couple large nuts.
By slk
From: Reno, NV
Jan 26, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

My first lead and one sweet line. I think the crux is at the bottom but depending on your height it could be where the line goes vertical. Being 6 foot the vertical section was not that tough. Also, some really nice nut placements at the rests.
By Ron Anderson
Jun 18, 2011

First Ascent of this CLASSIC was Bill Griffin, from Gardnerville in the ealry eighties!
By B RAD
Dec 12, 2011

Not quite perfect IMHO.

Needs to be longer! :D
By Jeff Schroeder
From: Minneapolis, MN
Feb 18, 2013

Great route. Quite an approach. Don't forget that since the route is mainly lieback, it can be tricky to inspect your placements. There is a great rest in the middle of route. It is a great opportunity to set a couple bomber placements before finishing the route.
By Connor Newman
From: Denver, CO.
May 6, 2013

I agree with the comments above that the crux is at the start, mainly because of the relative lack of feet and not being able to look at your gear. The moves up top are pretty easy, and you have a rest and bomber gear to do them unlike the laybacking at the start.
By Tele Liz
From: Davis, CA
Jun 18, 2014

Agree that the crux is off the ground (no feet and tough to look for placement). Too many good feet when the climb turns vertical. I think it might be the only climb in Woodfords to truly have gotten "traffic." The bottom section is turning glossy where you put your feet~ good rubber helps!
By Laine
From: Reno, NV
Jun 19, 2014

I've seen 5.10+ leaders get pumped out placing too much pro down low. The good locks are there and you can spot your first placement from the ground. Don't over think it and relax. You've got this.