The Perfect Lie Back 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | unknown |
| Submitted By: | Rick D on Apr 3, 2009 |
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Lucas enjoying a perfect lay back.
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Description If you walked up the sandy approach trail, this route will be just on your right. The first half is lie backing up a slab. The crack turns verticle at half way point, this is were the crux is.
Location This is to the east of the alcove area's and to the west of the sun wall
Protection Gear to 2". Chains at the top.
The Perfect Lieback
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Yes, it's perfect
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The oppositional body pressure just don't stop
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"Hmmm, how does this go again?"
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"Oh, that's right."
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A phat rest
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You can layback and jam at the same time. That is...
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Surgeon General says: liebacking is good for your ...
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Matt laying it back
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YIP
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| Comments on The Perfect Lie Back |
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By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 26, 2009
rating: 5.8
| I know the crux is where it turns vertical, and yet I felt the crux was the start. Mainly because you launch straight into slightly slippery, pumpy liebacking with no rests for at least 20-30 feet. The crux higher up feels less strenuous because it's a couple moves (depending on height) and then you are at a great rest.
Takes mainly #.4-2 Camalots and I used a couple large nuts. |
By slk
From: Reno, NV
Jan 26, 2011
rating: 5.8
| My first lead and one sweet line. I think the crux is at the bottom but depending on your height it could be where the line goes vertical. Being 6 foot the vertical section was not that tough. Also, some really nice nut placements at the rests. |
By Ron Anderson
Jun 18, 2011
| First Ascent of this CLASSIC was Bill Griffin, from Gardnerville in the ealry eighties! |
By B RAD
Dec 12, 2011
| Not quite perfect IMHO.
Needs to be longer! :D |
By Jeff Schroeder
From: Minneapolis, MN
Feb 18, 2013
| Great route. Quite an approach. Don't forget that since the route is mainly lieback, it can be tricky to inspect your placements. There is a great rest in the middle of route. It is a great opportunity to set a couple bomber placements before finishing the route. |
By Connor Newman
From: Reno, NV
May 6, 2013
| I agree with the comments above that the crux is at the start, mainly because of the relative lack of feet and not being able to look at your gear. The moves up top are pretty easy, and you have a rest and bomber gear to do them unlike the laybacking at the start. |
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