Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Hand
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Back in Slacks 
Back in Yaks 
Cardboard Cowboy 
East Face/Hand 
Father on Fire 
Lackin' Slacks (aka The Full Monty) 
New Saigon 
Perfect Kiss (P1 of Rock Atrocity), The 
Power Bulge 
Quest for Balance 
Rock Atrocity 

The Perfect Kiss (P1 of Rock Atrocity) 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Colin Lantz
Season: Autumn through spring
Page Views: 452
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Oct 19, 2008
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
  • Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    The Perfect Kiss is the 5.11d first pitch to Rock Atrocity, the hard-to-miss 5.13+ out the giant, overhanging, maroon capstone on the south face of the Hand. It's a bit sharp with some creaky flakes but is a plenty-tough challenge if you're in the area.

    From Power Bulge, head uphill to the ramp/slab used to access New Saigon / Father on Fire / Cardboard Cowboy. Scramble up about 20 feet to a little ledge/slot below a bulge with cobbles and look up -- six bolts take you to anchors hidden over a final little face, below the upper business of Rock Atrocity on the final headwall.

    Expect a crux down low and one up high on the little face. A couple clips are tough, but the bolts are sited where they have to be, to avoid hollow plates of rock.


    Location 

    Midway up the ramp along the southwest side of the Hand, Dinosaur Mountain.


    Protection 

    Six bolts to two-bolt anchors.



    Comments on The Perfect Kiss (P1 of Rock Atrocity) Add Comment
    Show which comments
    - none yet -