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 ADVANCED
The Hand
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Back in Slacks S 
Back in Yaks T,TR 
Cardboard Cowboy S 
East Face/Hand T 
Father on Fire T,S 
Lackin' Slacks (aka The Full Monty) T 
New Saigon S 
Perfect Kiss (P1 of Rock Atrocity), The S 
Power Bulge S 
Quest for Balance S,TR 
Rock Atrocity S 

The Perfect Kiss (P1 of Rock Atrocity) 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Colin Lantz
Season: Autumn through spring
Page Views: 524
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Oct 19, 2008

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  • Description 

    The Perfect Kiss is the 5.11d first pitch to Rock Atrocity, the hard-to-miss 5.13+ out the giant, overhanging, maroon capstone on the south face of the Hand. It's a bit sharp with some creaky flakes but is a plenty-tough challenge if you're in the area.

    From Power Bulge, head uphill to the ramp/slab used to access New Saigon / Father on Fire / Cardboard Cowboy. Scramble up about 20 feet to a little ledge/slot below a bulge with cobbles and look up -- six bolts take you to anchors hidden over a final little face, below the upper business of Rock Atrocity on the final headwall.

    Expect a crux down low and one up high on the little face. A couple clips are tough, but the bolts are sited where they have to be, to avoid hollow plates of rock.

    Location 

    Midway up the ramp along the southwest side of the Hand, Dinosaur Mountain.

    Protection 

    Six bolts to two-bolt anchors.


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