The Perfect Crimb 5.9
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Nate Postma, 1990 |
| Submitted By: | Ian Harmon on May 22, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: Perfect Crimb
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Description Climb up to a small ledge and clip the first bolt. Continue up the dihedral, steming your way to the top on somewhat polished foot holds. A fairly sustained climb, one of the better 5.9s on the bluff.
Location Perfect Crimb is the thin crack in the dihedral to the left of the large roof.
Protection 5 bolts to a two bolt anchor. Please use your own gear for top roping.
Near the top of Perfect Crimb
| Brage Haaheim leading Perfect Crimb. 04/02/11.
| Brage showing the correct way of protecting bolted...
| Perfect Crimb. Brage Haaheim. 04/02/11.
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| Comments on The Perfect Crimb |
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By Travis Hibbard Aug 2, 2008
| Can also be lead on gear. I placed nothing bigger than a .75 C4 on the whole route but there are plenty of places to stop and plug in stuff. |
By Kevin O'Connor From: Salt Lake City, UT Feb 22, 2010
| What was the reason for bolting this climb? |
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI Feb 24, 2010
| Oconnork says: "What was the reason for bolting this climb?" Why don't you call Nicros and ask Nate what the heck he was thinking when he bolted this climb while developing this crag the year you were born. |
By ferrells From: Minneapolis, MN May 30, 2010
| I led this one on gear maybe five or six years ago. It was definitely a different experience. The gear was alright, by my memory, but never great. Maybe PG13 as a gear lead. Maybe not, but at the very least, it required concentration. It's for the best that this one's been bolted, I think. When I needed bolted 5.9's to warm up, this route was, thankfully, available to me. Legions of other Red Wingers, I'm sure, feel the same way. Oh, and the experience of leading it on gear is still available for the local hoping to prove him or herself on slick 5.9 PG13. |
By Matt J Jun 5, 2011
| It's never too late to chop the bolts. It would be nice to have at least one decent gear route at the wing, for those who are looking for that kinda thing. |
By randy baum From: Minneapolis, MN Jun 6, 2011
| leave the bolts, please. this isn't boulder canyon. it's a damn choss quarry. that said, if you really want trad at RW, hop on: barnburner, relentless direct, don't mean nothin, or go "retro style" (aka sans bolts) on roofburner, annadonia, talking with god, doctor limit, or frequent flatulence. |
By Dreez Sep 11, 2011
| THis climb has seen its day. Very slimy. Last week leader wasted her leg on really bad rope burn. THis week leader fell backwards on her head and went to hospital. I give this 2 stars going down. Wear a helmet. |
By Sam Daley From: Minneapolis, Minnesota Sep 11, 2011 rating: 5.9
| Still a classic. |
By Eric Swanson From: Plymouth Nov 6, 2011
| Did this one today on gear and felt very solid. I have been lead most routes at RW that can be protected with gear, and this is one of the more solid ones. Nice clean placements, good finger locks, and the feet, while slippery, are bomber most of the time. Solid 9, but nothing more. |
By Josh Meis Nov 28, 2012 rating: 5.9
| Lead this route on Thanksgiving morning 2012 and pulled on the massive jug by the chaines at the top and the entire jug came off in my hand to turn the top jug into a nice slopper. A great climb. |
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