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Perfect Crimb Area
Routes Sorted
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Don't Mean Nothin' T 
Fallout, aka Perfect Sex S 
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Hateful Pleasures T,S 
Lacuna S 
One Hand Jam S 
Perfect Crimb, The S 
Pulldown Menu S 
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Vice Squad S 
Unsorted Routes:

The Perfect Crimb 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Nate Postma, 1990
Page Views: 5,558
Submitted By: Ian Harmon on May 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (113)
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BETA PHOTO: Perfect Crimb

Description 

Climb up to a small ledge and clip the first bolt. Continue up the dihedral, steming your way to the top on somewhat polished foot holds. A fairly sustained climb, one of the better 5.9s on the bluff.
  • RCM&W #84, p.131

Location 

Perfect Crimb is the thin crack in the dihedral to the left of the large roof.

Protection 

5 bolts to a two bolt anchor. Please use your own gear for top roping.


Photos of The Perfect Crimb Slideshow Add Photo
Brage showing the correct way of protecting bolted cracks. Perfect Crimb. 04/02/11.
Brage showing the correct way of protecting bolted...
Near the top of Perfect Crimb
Near the top of Perfect Crimb
Brage Haaheim leading Perfect Crimb. 04/02/11.
Brage Haaheim leading Perfect Crimb. 04/02/11.
Perfect Crimb. Brage Haaheim. 04/02/11.
Perfect Crimb. Brage Haaheim. 04/02/11.

Comments on The Perfect Crimb Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 30, 2013
By Travis Hibbard
Aug 2, 2008

Can also be lead on gear. I placed nothing bigger than a .75 C4 on the whole route but there are plenty of places to stop and plug in stuff.
By Kevin O'Connor
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 22, 2010

What was the reason for bolting this climb?
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Feb 24, 2010

Oconnork says: "What was the reason for bolting this climb?"

Why don't you call Nicros and ask Nate what the heck he was thinking when he bolted this climb while developing this crag the year you were born.
By ferrells
May 30, 2010

I led this one on gear maybe five or six years ago. It was definitely a different experience. The gear was alright, by my memory, but never great. Maybe PG13 as a gear lead. Maybe not, but at the very least, it required concentration.
It's for the best that this one's been bolted, I think. When I needed bolted 5.9's to warm up, this route was, thankfully, available to me. Legions of other Red Wingers, I'm sure, feel the same way. Oh, and the experience of leading it on gear is still available for the local hoping to prove him or herself on slick 5.9 PG13.
By Matt J
From: Bozeman, Montana
Jun 5, 2011

It's never too late to chop the bolts.

It would be nice to have at least one decent gear route at the wing, for those who are looking for that kinda thing.
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jun 6, 2011

leave the bolts, please. this isn't boulder canyon. it's a damn choss quarry.

that said, if you really want trad at RW, hop on: barnburner, relentless direct, don't mean nothin, or go "retro style" (aka sans bolts) on roofburner, annadonia, talking with god, doctor limit, or frequent flatulence.
By Dreez
Sep 11, 2011

THis climb has seen its day. Very slimy. Last week leader wasted her leg on really bad rope burn. THis week leader fell backwards on her head and went to hospital.

I give this 2 stars going down. Wear a helmet.
By Sam Daley
From: Minneapolis, Minnesota
Sep 11, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Still a classic.
By Eric Swanson
From: Plymouth
Nov 6, 2011

Did this one today on gear and felt very solid. I have been lead most routes at RW that can be protected with gear, and this is one of the more solid ones. Nice clean placements, good finger locks, and the feet, while slippery, are bomber most of the time. Solid 9, but nothing more.
By Josh Meis
Nov 28, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Lead this route on Thanksgiving morning 2012 and pulled on the massive jug by the chaines at the top and the entire jug came off in my hand to turn the top jug into a nice slopper. A great climb.
By Szymon
From: burbs of Chicago
Sep 30, 2013

Great climb really enjoyed the route.