The Penny Hill Boulders Rock Climbing
Dana trying some foot beta on Marc Troob's new rou...
The latest find in Arcadia is a cluster of three boulders, just off into the woods from the Breakheart and Penny Cutoff trails in the northern part of the management area. Most of the climbing is on the two main boulders, which form a small cave where they butt together, with some silly lowballs on a third. These boulders are best visited when the gates are open, so you can park nearby, with only a short 10 minute hike to get to them. Otherwise, you will have to mountainbike or walk a little over a mile and a half. I'm not sure of the schedule, but the gate was closed this winter and opened in March.
As you approach the boulders from the trail, the right side of the cave is a great compression problem Porcelain Hook Slide V5++ which follows a fat rib up the arete.. To the right of it is a hard project that will require powerful crimping out high quality rock, then some easier routes. Around back there is a short route out the other end of the cave and a good wall on the backside of the largest boulder, that has some good, but crimpy face climbing, an arete and around the corner a tall slabby face with a good layback crack.
Reached via the same entrance as the Escoheag boulders, so drive west on Rt 165 past Mt. Tom and take a right on to Escoheag Hill Rd. In approximately a mile take a right into the horseshoe shaped entrance of the dirt Plain Rd. with a red log park building in the middle of it. Don't take the spur to the right, but instead go past the gate and drive 1.5 miles on the main dirt road, passing a bridge and another gate on the way.
At 1.5 miles there is a 2 or 3 car pull off on the right and a wooden sign for Breakheart trail across the road on your left. Park and hike north up Breakheart tr, over a ridge, and when you come down you will get to a T. Take a right and in a minute or 2 more the trail will split at the Penny Cutoff. At the cutoff or just before, leave the trail and walk into the woods on the right a few hundred feet. The big boulder should be obvious. It is a short 10 minute hike from the parking spot.
Climbing Season For the Arcadia Management Area area.
Weather station 6.4 miles from here
5 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Penny Hill Boulders
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Penny Hill Boulders
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Penny Hill Boulders:
Featured Route For The Penny Hill Boulders
BETA PHOTO: The front face project
Dana working out the cave to the Muscle Beach move...
By Sean Gilman
Jul 9, 2015
There is an obvious sit start line in middle of vertical face on back side of the main Boulder. Has this just never been done or just not added to MP? Also the sit to V3 seems like a better line than the stand and has chalk all over it....
By M Sprague
From: New England
Jul 9, 2015
Yes, I did a few sit starts there. For the V3 I started a little left (also with a finish to the right). I also did another sit to the left of the right arete. Feel free to give them names and grades and post them up. I just never got around to doing that. If not, I'll try to get over there and reclimb them so I can write up accurate descriptions. I recently killed my camera so I can't make up a topo.