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The Penny Hill Boulders

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Lion's Den 
Lip Traverse, left to right 
Nothing But the Sun 
Porcelain Hook Slide 
Second Look Arete 

The Penny Hill Boulders Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 41.60182, -71.73078 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 864
Administrators: M Sprague, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: M Sprague on Mar 30, 2012
Forecast:
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Dana trying some foot beta on Marc Troob's new rou...

Description 

The latest find in Arcadia is a cluster of three boulders, just off into the woods from the Breakheart and Penny Cutoff trails in the northern part of the management area. Most of the climbing is on the two main boulders, which form a small cave where they butt together, with some silly lowballs on a third. These boulders are best visited when the gates are open, so you can park nearby, with only a short 10 minute hike to get to them. Otherwise, you will have to mountainbike or walk a little over a mile and a half. I'm not sure of the schedule, but the gate was closed this winter and opened in March.

As you approach the boulders from the trail, the right side of the cave is a great compression problem Porcelain Hook Slide V5++ which follows a fat rib up the arete.. To the right of it is a hard project that will require powerful crimping out high quality rock, then some easier routes. Around back there is a short route out the other end of the cave and a good wall on the backside of the largest boulder, that has some good, but crimpy face climbing, an arete and around the corner a tall slabby face with a good layback crack.

Getting There 

Reached via the same entrance as the Escoheag boulders, so drive west on Rt 165 past Mt. Tom and take a right on to Escoheag Hill Rd. In approximately a mile take a right into the horseshoe shaped entrance of the dirt Plain Rd. with a red log park building in the middle of it. Don't take the spur to the right, but instead go past the gate and drive 1.5 miles on the main dirt road, passing a bridge and another gate on the way.
At 1.5 miles there is a 2 or 3 car pull off on the right and a wooden sign for Breakheart trail across the road on your left. Park and hike north up Breakheart tr, over a ridge, and when you come down you will get to a T. Take a right and in a minute or 2 more the trail will split at the Penny Cutoff. At the cutoff or just before, leave the trail and walk into the woods on the right a few hundred feet. The big boulder should be obvious. It is a short 10 minute hike from the parking spot.

Climbing Season

For the Arcadia Management Area area.

Weather station 6.4 miles from here

5 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',2],['V2-3',2],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Penny Hill Boulders

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Penny Hill Boulders:
Porcelain Hook Slide   V5 6C     Boulder, 1 pitch, 12'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Penny Hill Boulders

Featured Route For The Penny Hill Boulders
Rock Climbing Photo: Dana trying some foot beta on Marc Troob's new rou...

Porcelain Hook Slide V5 6C  Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : The Penny Hill Boulders
Sit start with left on pinch with thumb catch, right on undercling. Work out dark left facing arete, while slapping up white right facing arete. Top out like a boss...[more]   Browse More Classics in Rhode Island

Photos of The Penny Hill Boulders Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The front face project
BETA PHOTO: The front face project
Rock Climbing Photo: One of the ridge line boulders
BETA PHOTO: One of the ridge line boulders
Rock Climbing Photo: Dana working out the cave to the Muscle Beach move...
Dana working out the cave to the Muscle Beach move...

Comments on The Penny Hill Boulders Add Comment
Show which comments
By Sean Gilman
Jul 9, 2015
There is an obvious sit start line in middle of vertical face on back side of the main Boulder. Has this just never been done or just not added to MP? Also the sit to V3 seems like a better line than the stand and has chalk all over it....
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 9, 2015
Yes, I did a few sit starts there. For the V3 I started a little left (also with a finish to the right). I also did another sit to the left of the right arete. Feel free to give them names and grades and post them up. I just never got around to doing that. If not, I'll try to get over there and reclimb them so I can write up accurate descriptions.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Feb 28, 2016
After throwing myself at the project for a while today, I went and explored the area in back and to the left more (SE), along the ridge line. I found quite a few more boulders there than I remembered. Most are too short to really do anything with, but there were definitely a handful with worthy route potential and they are only a few minutes away. If we scrub them up we should be able to have a nice little circuit to add to the main boulders. I only had time to scrub off and do 3 routes on one boulder, but I plan on going back.

To get to them from the main cluster, walk around to the back where the larger vertical face is (south side). Walk up and left for a minute or two to the top of the ridge and then follow the ridge down to the left (SE).

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