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The Penny Hill Boulders

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Lion's Den 
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Second Look Arete 

The Penny Hill Boulders 


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Administrators: M Sprague, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: M Sprague on Mar 30, 2012
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Dana working out the cave to the Muscle Beach move...

Description 

The latest find in Arcadia is a cluster of three boulders, just off into the woods from the Breakheart and Penny Cutoff trails in the northern part of the management area. Most of the climbing is on the two main boulders, which form a small cave where they butt together, with some silly lowballs on a third. These boulders are best visited when the gates are open, so you can park nearby, with only a short 10 minute hike to get to them. Otherwise, you will have to mountainbike or walk a little over a mile and a half. I'm not sure of the schedule, but the gate was closed this winter and opened in March.

As you approach the boulders from the trail, the right side of the cave is a great compression problem Porcelain Hook Slide V5++ which follows a fat rib up the arete.. To the right of it is a hard project that will require powerful crimping out high quality rock, then some easier routes. Around back there is a short route out the other end of the cave and a good wall on the backside of the largest boulder, that has some good, but crimpy face climbing, an arete and around the corner a tall slabby face with a good layback crack.

Note - if you work on the hard project, especially the sit start, before it is tacked, be careful of the low blocky orange flake. It would be a shame to have it blow off, ruining a potentially very hard quality line.


Getting There 

Reached via the same entrance as the Escoheag boulders, so drive west on Rt 165 past Mt. Tom and take a right on to Escoheag Hill Rd. In approximately a mile take a right into the horseshoe shaped entrance of the dirt Plain Rd. with a red log park building in the middle of it. Don't take the spur to the right, but instead go past the gate and drive 1.5 miles on the main dirt road, passing a bridge and another gate on the way.
At 1.5 miles there is a 2 or 3 car pull off on the right and a wooden sign for Breakheart trail across the road on your left. Park and hike north up Breakheart tr, over a ridge, and when you come down you will get to a T. Take a right and in a minute or 2 more the trail will split at the Penny Cutoff. At the cutoff or just before, leave the trail and walk into the woods on the right a few hundred feet. The big boulder should be obvious. It is a short 10 minute hike from the parking spot.


5 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',2],['V2-3',2],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For The Penny Hill Boulders
Dana trying some foot beta on Marc Troob's new route, Porcelain Hook Slide

Porcelain Hook Slide V5 6C  Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : The Penny Hill Boulders
Sit start with left on pinch with thumb catch, right on undercling. Work out dark left facing arete, while slapping up white right facing arete. Top out like a boss...[more]   Browse More Classics in Rhode Island

Comments on The Penny Hill Boulders Add Comment
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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 11, 2012

The cave rib project is going down! I figured out some beta yesterday and did the top out. I threw myself at the other project too, but I am only managing to hold myself off the ground for about 1.5 seconds. It is awsome, but probably is going to be at least V11, harder as a sit. While I was in the cave some hikers thought I was an animal, so threw rocks at me to make sure I was not a mountain lion before they walked over, lol.

By Christopher J Simpson
Apr 5, 2014

Has the block been reinforced yet?

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 6, 2014

No. Thanks for reminding me, Chris. I'll try to get over there soon to do it if the gate is open.