The Penguins, a group of spires located just northeast of the Candy Store, offer both sunny and shady routes on good rock.
From the Candy Store, drive east toward the Whitney Cave cattle gate, but turn left (north) at the first dirt road. From the loop at the end of the road, walk northeast toward the prominent towers. ~5 minutes hiking from the car.
There are several unreported routes on the south side of the west Penguin. One is on the arÍte and the other around to the right on the face. The arÍte looks like maybe 8 and the face maybe 9 or harder? We didn't try either one given the lack of info and we were just warming up for the day - they both look like nice routes.
Not sure if you see the routes listed for the West Penguin but these are the "unreported" routes you speak of....'Stem Cell Research' (.10a) and 'My Little Lab Rat' (.10b). Give them a try before you eyeball rate them from the ground.