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The Penguin
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Emperor's March, The S 
Penguin, The S 
Totally Gilligan T 

The Penguin 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Pat Contor, '87
Page Views: 344
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Mar 26, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Zach and the Penguin.


A short face climb on the west face of The Penguin starting in the gully between the pinnacle and the Tear Garden wall. An optional hand sized cam could be placed getting up to the first bolt.


The obvious bolted line, facing the Tear Garden wall.


An optional hand sized piece, one bolt, one pin, and one more bolt. The anchor consists of slings (some old and some new) around the summit block.

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By John Steiger
Aug 2, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R

Bolts (and fixed blade) still horrendous. I could figure out a way to back-up the pin (nut to right, small cam in pod to left) and last bolt (microcam to right), but not the first bolt – which is by far the worst. Don’t fall on that bolt, or you’re spinning the chamber. Good climbing though.
By bus driver
Aug 2, 2015

I've not been up there. What is bad about the bolts?
By John Steiger
Aug 3, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R

BD, both are rusted quarter-inch buttonheads, first with about 1/4" of shaft showing when looking down on it (I suspect the rock fractured when it was pounded in, but it may be from a fall) and the second with an equally rusted homemade (or early Leeper?) hanger.

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