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6. Wayne Manor
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alfred S 
Batty T 
Black Bird Crack T 
Cat Woman S 
Dead Bird T 
Frankenstone S 
Mad Hatter S 
Mariposa T 
Mixed Bag T,S 
New Era S 
Penguin, The S 
Slab-monger T,S 
Wrendevous T 

The Penguin 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio & Jay Foley
Page Views: 362
Submitted By: Mike Howard on May 27, 2007

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Extreme palming & stemming will get you past the crux moves. Save something for the upper, pumpy moves.



About 100 feet right of the obvious black crack on the left side of the cliff is a V-corner with a thin seam. This is the route.


12 quickdraws

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By Aaron Miller
From: Santa Fe, NM
Oct 26, 2015

This is almost an amazingly awesome route, as the corner climbing at the start (bolted crack with mostly face-climbing moves) is super fun. The climbing on the upper section is a little contrived as its really close to the 11a just left of it (you can reach all the holds if desired) and its hard to see the little micro pocket you need to reach for to make the move over the bulge-arete. With that said, it was fun, safe, and worth doing. Shares Anchor with Cat-Woman.

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