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 ADVANCED
Upper Falls - Ice
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The Pencil aka Candlestick 

WI4-5

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus: WI4-5 [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Winter
Page Views: 1,555
Submitted By: Chris Zeller on Apr 13, 2005

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BETA PHOTO

Description 

This was perhaps the most challenging ice climb in terms of pure technical difficulty on the Front Range (outside RMNP). The climb follows an obvious pillar at the extreme left of the climbing area near a large pine tree. The pillar ranges from thin and chandeliered, to fat, to rotten with short overhanging sections throughout the climbing season (depending upon conditions it may be easier than WI5). During most of the season, the climb sports difficult sustained vertical climbing throughout its height.

Descent: Belay a second from bolts above and scramble to the top of the aqueduct. Head right along the aqueduct and scramble down rocks and easy ice to the base of the climb. In the Fall of 2000, a fixed rope with knots every foot was could be used to aid the descent (as always, evaluate the safety of this aid yourself and use it at your own risk). Alternately, continue farther along the aqueduct and follow a trail to the base.

Protection 

Screws, thick enough to take full-length screws.

Toprope Protection 

Bolts on boulders above the climb provide excellent anchors or use long slings to trees if the bolts are covered with ice/snow. Bring slings of various lengths and one rope.


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