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Swaseyland
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A walk on the Swasey Side T 
Broken Cross T 
Division Bell Crack T 
Eagle Rock T 
Maura's Tower - Join the Party T 
Peanut Butter Jar, The T 
Pleasant Surprise Tower T 
Where Grandmas fear to tread T 

The Peanut Butter Jar 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a A2 PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 150', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a A2 [details]
FA: James Garrett, solo, 30 September 1998
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 364
Submitted By: James Garrett on Jul 21, 2008

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Description 

Approach the longest and steepest side of the Peanut Butter Jar. Perhaps named shortly thereafter and in reference to Frosty Weller's Mustard Jar route, also in the Southern Swell.

Pitch #1: Easy climbing steepens up a crack and at its end, pass a bolt and some soft nailing. Pass 3 more bolts over a roof to a soft crack/groove to another bolt. A blank section protected by two more bolts leads to a final right facing corner to the summit anchors. Great views in an environment of solitude. 5.5, A2, 50m

Cairn erected on top. FA of the tower at the time. Rappel the route.

This may have been climbed since and called something else, as it is an obvious tower with a short approach and short climb to its top. I am quite sure it had never been climbed prior to this ascent, however.


Location 

The Peanut Butter Jar may be viewed from Broken Cross. As one is parked at the cabin, walk up canyon from Broken Cross and see a line-up of weak tower like formations along a ridge line to the south. One has a very blocky "jar-like" appearance, is its "summit" and has a very flat appearing top, hence, I called it The Peanut Butter Jar. About a 20 minute hike (if I recall correctly) to its base on flat ground in the high country....you won't have to descend down into ravines or gulches.


Protection 

QDs and set of Camalots and set of assorted variety of pitons.



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