The Pastafarian 5.12
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12 [details] |
| FA: | Unknown - 1997 |
| Submitted By: | Josh Janes on Oct 13, 2009 |
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Description This is a great mixed climb that requires endurance stemming/chimneying and the ability to crank on first-digit locks.
Begin immediately right of Tofu Crack and head up a wide crack to the top of a large block. Climb up sandy rock to a ledge below the business: A long, narrowing finger crack on the right and an obtuse corner on the left. Head up this with increasing difficulty to a bolt, then bust some creative moves past a difficult second clip, and finally some pumpy but secure locks to the anchor.
Protection 0.5 Camalots down to purple TCU's/blue Aliens. A #2 and/or #4 Camalot with a long sling is useful for the start.
| Comments on The Pastafarian |
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By Ol' Toby
From: CO
Nov 9, 2010
rating: 5.12c
| Hard stemming and thin gear before the bolts on this route. Take lots of thin stuff, green alien for the right crack or purple metolius/blue alien for the left crack. Tricky sequence moving between the bolts leading to a big crank at the finish. Stout!! |
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