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Cedar Wright on The Pastafarian, nearing the 2 bol...
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
This is a great mixed climb that requires endurance stemming/chimneying and the ability to crank on first-digit locks.
Begin immediately right of Tofu Crack and head up a wide crack to the top of a large block. Climb up sandy rock to a ledge below the business: A long, narrowing finger crack on the right and an obtuse corner on the left. Head up this with increasing difficulty to a bolt, then bust some creative moves past a difficult second clip, and finally some pumpy but secure locks to the anchor.
0.5 Camalots down to purple TCU's/blue Aliens. A #2 and/or #4 Camalot with a long sling is useful for the start.
By Ol' Toby
Nov 9, 2010
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hard stemming and thin gear before the bolts; green alien for the right crack or blue alien/purple tcu for the left. Then a tricky sequence between the bolts leads to a long pull at the finish.