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The Parking Lot Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
100% Columbian S 
A Week With Pete S 
Cafe au Lait S 
Centerfold T 
Chloe's Breakfast Special S 
Curly for President S 
Dead Sea Equestrian S 
Easily Amused S 
Easily Aroused S 
Egg McMeadows S 
Espresso S 
Glory Jean's S 
Idiot's Deluxe S 
Juan Valdez S 
Mr. Coffee S 
Percolator S 
Quinn/Callaghan S 
Red Sea Pedestrian S 
Rise and Shine S 
Rubicon S 
Rumor Has It T 
Shealyn's Way S 
Shemp Lives S 
Squeeze My Lemon S 

The Parking Lot Wall 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 34,414
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Dec 16, 2006
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Description 

If you are looking for beginner sport routes, then look no further. The Parking Lot Wall is a mecca for easy-to-moderately-hard sport routes that remains in the sun for the majority of the day.

Conveniently situated behind the main parking lot, the PLW is host to stellar full-length 5.6s and 5.8s (Glory Jeans, and Chloe's Breakfast Special, for example), as well as short, testy 5.9s (Egg McMeadows). Climbers can also find instant gratification from the steeper, pumpier side of Rumney by climbing the forearm-inflating route Espresso (10d), as well as 100% Columbian (11c), both located on the rightmost side of the cliff.

This crag sees the MOST small/large group traffic and can be extremely crowded on a busy weekend!


Getting There 

Park in the main parking lot for Rumney. Look up and you'll see the cliff in plain view. The trailhead is directly behind the information board. A 1-minute jaunt uphill will bring you to the base of Espresso. The majority of the routes are to the left.


Climbing Season


24 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',5],['5.8',3],['5.9',4],['5.10',5],['5.11',2],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Parking Lot Wall:
A Week With Pete   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Sport, 55'   
Cafe au Lait   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport   
Glory Jean's   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport   
Shealyn's Way   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Rise and Shine   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Chloe's Breakfast Special   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Quinn/Callaghan   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Curly for President   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport   
Egg McMeadows   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Juan Valdez   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Rubicon   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Idiot's Deluxe   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport   
Espresso   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
100% Columbian   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Browse More Classics in The Parking Lot Wall

Featured Route For The Parking Lot Wall
Chris Duca about midway up the route.   <br /> <br />Photo taken by Liam Griffin.

Espresso 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  NH : Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall
The first (and steepest) climb you encounter at the height of the climbers trail. In just 60 feet of climbing, Espresso has easy slab climbing, a series of tricky moves to surmount a bulge, and a fun line of juggy moves right before you encounter a brief, but crimpy crux.The bolts are well-placed, the climbing is fun, and the falls are clean and safe. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of The Parking Lot Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Parking Lot Wall, Rumney, NH. Jan 2011
Parking Lot Wall, Rumney, NH. Jan 2011
Comments on The Parking Lot Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 17, 2007

Please toprope off your own gear See what it looks like if you TR off the quick clips

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 6, 2009

There is a project with a single old bolt and I believe anchors that is between Week With Pete and Espresso. It starts at the back of the roof and up to the anchors. I am not sure if this has ever been sent it doesnt look like it has...

By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Apr 6, 2009

matt.. i have ogled and oogled over that little roof ALOT! i have no doubt in my mind that i could never send it lol but i would love to work it with you some day :) when ever im up at rumney i always touch the holds on the end of the roof :)

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 6, 2009

yeah I dont think i could ever send it but i would love to give it a shot hit me up with an email when you gonna be in the area sometime and we will hit it up.

By twellman
Sep 11, 2012

Does anyone know what the deal is with the anchors on top of the tallish section of cliff that is straight up from the bathrooms, very close to the parking lot, about 200 feet left of the Meadows Flow ice climbs? Looks like some pretty dirty chossy rock... maybe they're also for ice climbing?

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 11, 2012

They might be anchors that I put in a long time ago. There is actually good climbing up there, but I abandoned it since you had to scramble up a dirty corner to get to the good stuff and I didn't think it was worth cleaning there. We learned there are actually some rare plants in that area that the FS was concerned about, so nobody should clean where the iceclimbs go. They were even contemplating closing it to all climbers, but they were convinced that the ice covering protected it enough.

By twellman
Sep 11, 2012

Thanks for the info Mark. Is it the cut-leaf toothwort, the same one they put up the fence near Flesh for? I think it would be helpful for someone with good knowledge of the rare plants in the area to put some of that info (and photos if possible) here on MP. Most people, including myself, wouldn't know the difference between rare plants and weeds. Maybe we could work that out with someone from the forest service.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 11, 2012

I think it was another plant, but I don't remember the name. Ward probably knows. A problem with some of these species is that they are basically invisable part of the season, only above ground parts of the year.
I agree, photos and descriptions here of the rare plants at Rumney would be a good idea.

By TDoyle
From: Milford, MA
Aug 30, 2013

One of the quick clips on Easily Amused was looking a little worn down when I was on it today.