Mountain Project: Climbing Rumney > The Parking Lot Wall

If you are looking for beginner sport routes, then look no further. The Parking Lot Wall is a mecca for easy-to-moderately-hard sport routes that remains in the sun for the majority of the day.

Conveniently situated behind the main parking lot, the PLW is host to stellar full-length 5.6s and 5.8s (Glory Jeans, and Chloe's Breakfast Special, for example), as well as short, testy 5.9s (Egg McMeadows). Climbers can also find instant gratification from the steeper, pumpier side of Rumney by climbing the forearm-inflating route Espresso (10d), as well as 100% Columbian (11c), both located on the rightmost side of the cliff.

This crag sees the MOST small/large group traffic and can be extremely crowded on a busy weekend!

Getting There

Park in the main parking lot for Rumney. Look up and you'll see the cliff in plain view. The trailhead is directly behind the information board. A 1-minute jaunt uphill will bring you to the base of Espresso. The majority of the routes are to the left.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Parking Lot Wall:

A Week With Pete 5.4 Sport, 55 feet

Cafe au Lait 5.6 Sport

Glory Jean's 5.6 Sport

Dead Sea Equestrian 5.7 Sport

Rise and Shine 5.7 Sport, 1 pitch

Shealyn's Way 5.7 Sport, 1 pitch

Shemp Lives 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet

Squeeze My Lemon 5.8 Sport

Chloe's Breakfast Special 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet

Quinn/Callaghan 5.9- PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet

Curly for President 5.9 Sport

Egg McMeadows 5.9+ Sport, 1 pitch

Red Sea Pedestrian 5.10b Sport, 45 feet

Rubicon 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet

Juan Valdez 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch

Idiot's Deluxe 5.10d Sport

Espresso 5.10d Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet

100% Columbian 5.11c Sport, 1 pitch

Comments on The Parking Lot Wall

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By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 17, 2007

Please toprope off your own gear See what it looks like if you TR off the quick clips

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 6, 2009

There is a project with a single old bolt and I believe anchors that is between Week With Pete and Espresso. It starts at the back of the roof and up to the anchors. I am not sure if this has ever been sent it doesnt look like it has...

By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Apr 6, 2009

matt.. i have ogled and oogled over that little roof ALOT! i have no doubt in my mind that i could never send it lol but i would love to work it with you some day :) when ever im up at rumney i always touch the holds on the end of the roof :)

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 6, 2009

yeah I dont think i could ever send it but i would love to give it a shot hit me up with an email when you gonna be in the area sometime and we will hit it up.

By twellman
Sep 11, 2012

Does anyone know what the deal is with the anchors on top of the tallish section of cliff that is straight up from the bathrooms, very close to the parking lot, about 200 feet left of the Meadows Flow ice climbs? Looks like some pretty dirty chossy rock... maybe they're also for ice climbing?

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 11, 2012

They might be anchors that I put in a long time ago. There is actually good climbing up there, but I abandoned it since you had to scramble up a dirty corner to get to the good stuff and I didn't think it was worth cleaning there. We learned there are actually some rare plants in that area that the FS was concerned about, so nobody should clean where the iceclimbs go. They were even contemplating closing it to all climbers, but they were convinced that the ice covering protected it enough.

By twellman
Sep 11, 2012

Thanks for the info Mark. Is it the cut-leaf toothwort, the same one they put up the fence near Flesh for? I think it would be helpful for someone with good knowledge of the rare plants in the area to put some of that info (and photos if possible) here on MP. Most people, including myself, wouldn't know the difference between rare plants and weeds. Maybe we could work that out with someone from the forest service.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 11, 2012

I think it was another plant, but I don't remember the name. Ward probably knows. A problem with some of these species is that they are basically invisable part of the season, only above ground parts of the year.
I agree, photos and descriptions here of the rare plants at Rumney would be a good idea.

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The Parking Lot Wall

Description

Getting There

The Classics