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The Papper 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Grahm Doe & Brent Webster, 1994
Page Views: 459
Submitted By: C Miller on Jun 28, 2006
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Lieback the crack and then head up the face above with the crux being an awkward and somewhat balancy mantle at mid-height. Finishes up easier face to the anchors.


Starts just right of Lucky Cuss in a steep, slanting crack system.


5 bolts, anchors

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By Russ Walling
May 14, 2007

Doing this route by following the holds instead of the bolt line will make the 6th (?) bolt almost unclippable way out to your right. You can skip it with little worries.

By Euan Cameron
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
May 21, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Committing to the crux early makes this route easier - as soon as you get your feet high, all the weight comes of your hands, and the crimps feel so much better - fun route.

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jun 1, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

The mid-way bulge has good edges and feet but the lichen made me feel insecure. Afterwards, I looked down at my feet and realized I was on a golfball size hold.

Russ is mistaken. No 6th bolt and the last bolt is directly below the anchor and in line with the route.