The Papoose Rock Climbing
Pitch 1 of Hairpin
Multipitch wall with many great lines on it. The top gives you some great views of the Chief. Definitely worth checking out if you will be in Squamish for a while.
There's quite a lot of retro-scrubbing and new route activity going on (2011/2012). Hanging Gardens, for example, is now a clean 10+ that is reportedly very good with a hard (but protected) slab crux.
Many new routes have been added since the 2012 guide. See this topo
for more details
The Papoose is about a half mile to a mile south of the Chief camping area. Park at Shannon Falls. Walk down the road about 100 yards, and then dive down a short hill towards the wall.
McLane's book shows a walk-off to the south. As Andy notes, the walk-off to the north is straightforward and works well. Follow the cliff edge north until the trail becomes obvious. Some routes can be rapped, but unless noted in the route description, don't assume you can get down with a single 70m.
Climbing Season For the Squamish area.
Weather station 2.1 miles from here
12 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Papoose
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Papoose
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Papoose:
Mushroom 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Laid Back 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch
Hairpin 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 4 pitches, 300'
Centerfold 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Featured Route For The Papoose
Centerfold 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b North America
: ... : The Papoose
Three pitch climb up the middle of the Papoose. A classic route with high quality climbing and good variety.P1. Follow finger cracks and groove trending left (bolted) to a belay on the narrow, treed 'Moccasin Ledge'.P2. Perfect hand jams up a groove on the left end of the ledge and through a small roof lead to wild stemming and twin finger cracks. From here, mantle up and left to the belay.P3. Follow a delicated slab (bolts and small gear) to the top. This pitch is more runout than the first tw...[more] Browse More Classics in International
By Andy Laakmann
From: Bend, OR
Aug 4, 2009
A well worn (and marked) descent path heads climber's left from the top. It eventually hits the road where you began the hike to the wall, and you can follow that back to your packs.
By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
May 11, 2012
The Papoose is bigger and better than it looks from the road, definitely worth checking out.
By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Aug 7, 2012
Jesus, tried the South walkout as recommended by McLane's guidebook. WTF. Sketchy at the best of times, then after you've gone sufficiently far down the trail just starts to evaporate. It's completely overgrown, we hiked back up and found the great trail that heads North, which is pleasant and obvious.
By Mark van Eijk
Sep 9, 2014
Tried the rap line just south of the top-out of Hairpin. Reaching the first station was barely possible when hitting the knots on the end of our 70m. My partner and I both spent a lot of time looking for intermediate anchors but saw nothing. If you go this route with a 60 you will not make it.