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The Papoose

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Centerfold 
Hairpin 
Hanging Gardens 
Laid Back 
Mercury Vapour 
Mushroom 
Obsession 
Pamplemousse 
Papoose One 
Transit of Venus 

The Papoose 


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Location: 49.6675, -123.166 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,038
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: The Gravel Diving Albatross on Nov 15, 2006
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Pitch 1 of Hairpin

Description 

Multipitch wall with many great lines on it. The top gives you some great views of the Chief. Definitely worth checking out if you will be in Squamish for a while.

There's quite a lot of retro-scrubbing and new route activity going on (2011/2012). Hanging Gardens, for example, is now a clean 10+ that is reportedly very good with a hard (but protected) slab crux.

Many new routes have been added since the 2012 guide. See this topo for more details


Getting There 

The Papoose is about a half mile to a mile south of the Chief camping area. Park at Shannon Falls. Walk down the road about 100 yards, and then dive down a short hill towards the wall.


Descent 

McLane's book shows a walk-off to the south. As Andy notes, the walk-off to the north is straightforward and works well. Follow the cliff edge north until the trail becomes obvious. Some routes can be rapped, but unless noted in the route description, don't assume you can get down with a single 70m.


10 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',7],['5.11',0],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Papoose:
Mushroom   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Hairpin   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 300'   
Mercury Vapour   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
Centerfold   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Papoose One   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 6 pitches   
Browse More Classics in The Papoose

Featured Route For The Papoose
Looking down the first pitch from Mocassin ledge. The crux of the first pitch is a slabby move that is protected with a bolt. This pitch is shared with the start of Papoose One.

Centerfold 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b  North America : Canada : ... : The Papoose
Three pitch climb up the middle of the Papoose. A classic route with high quality climbing and good variety.P1. Follow finger cracks and groove trending left (bolted) to a belay on the narrow, treed 'Moccasin Ledge'.P2. Perfect hand jams up a groove on the left end of the ledge and through a small roof lead to wild stemming and twin finger cracks. From here, mantle up and left to the belay.P3. Follow a delicated slab (bolts and small gear) to the top. This pitch is more runout than the first tw...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of The Papoose Slideshow Add Photo
PItch 4 of Hairpin
PItch 4 of Hairpin
Comments on The Papoose Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 4, 2009

A well worn (and marked) descent path heads climber's left from the top. It eventually hits the road where you began the hike to the wall, and you can follow that back to your packs.

By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
May 11, 2012

The Papoose is bigger and better than it looks from the road, definitely worth checking out.

By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Aug 7, 2012

Jesus, tried the South walkout as recommended by McLane's guidebook. WTF. Sketchy at the best of times, then after you've gone sufficiently far down the trail just starts to evaporate. It's completely overgrown, we hiked back up and found the great trail that heads North, which is pleasant and obvious.