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The Papoose

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Centerfold T 
Hairpin T 
Hanging Gardens T 
Laid Back T 
Limbo T 
Mercury Vapour T 
Mushroom T 
Obsession T 
Pamplemousse T,S 
Papoose One T 
Survival Enhancement T 
Transit of Venus T 

The Papoose Rock Climbing 

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Location: 49.6675, -123.166 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,622
Administrators: Nate Ball, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: The Gravel Diving Albatross on Nov 15, 2006
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Multipitch wall with many great lines on it. The top gives you some great views of the Chief. Definitely worth checking out if you will be in Squamish for a while.

There's quite a lot of retro-scrubbing and new route activity going on (2011/2012). Hanging Gardens, for example, is now a clean 10+ that is reportedly very good with a hard (but protected) slab crux.

Many new routes have been added since the 2012 guide. See this topo for more details

Getting There 

The Papoose is about a half mile to a mile south of the Chief camping area. Park at Shannon Falls. Walk down the road about 100 yards, and then dive down a short hill towards the wall.


McLane's book shows a walk-off to the south. As Andy notes, the walk-off to the north is straightforward and works well. Follow the cliff edge north until the trail becomes obvious. Some routes can be rapped, but unless noted in the route description, don't assume you can get down with a single 70m.

Climbing Season

For the Squamish area.

Weather station 2.1 miles from here

12 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Papoose

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Papoose:
Mushroom   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Laid Back   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Hairpin   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 300'   
Mercury Vapour   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
Papoose One   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 6 pitches   
Centerfold   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Hanging Gardens   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 3 pitches   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Papoose

Featured Route For The Papoose
Rock Climbing Photo: Ken starting up Mushroom. Great thin hands/fingers...

Mushroom 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  North America : Canada : ... : The Papoose
Mushroom is the splitter thin hands crack on the far right side of the Papoose. Not to be missed if climbing at this crag. It's difficult for the grade if you aren't used to pure jamming and no face holds. Sustained at a thin-hand/ringlock size, it could be thought of as the easier twin to "Hand Jive" at the lower malamute....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of The Papoose Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: PItch 4 of Hairpin
PItch 4 of Hairpin

Comments on The Papoose Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 4, 2009
A well worn (and marked) descent path heads climber's left from the top. It eventually hits the road where you began the hike to the wall, and you can follow that back to your packs.
By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
May 11, 2012
The Papoose is bigger and better than it looks from the road, definitely worth checking out.
By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Aug 7, 2012
Jesus, tried the South walkout as recommended by McLane's guidebook. WTF. Sketchy at the best of times, then after you've gone sufficiently far down the trail just starts to evaporate. It's completely overgrown, we hiked back up and found the great trail that heads North, which is pleasant and obvious.
By Mark van Eijk
Sep 9, 2014
Tried the rap line just south of the top-out of Hairpin. Reaching the first station was barely possible when hitting the knots on the end of our 70m. My partner and I both spent a lot of time looking for intermediate anchors but saw nothing. If you go this route with a 60 you will not make it.

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