Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Jobsite
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air China Flight 924 T 
Batman S 
Coyote Certified S 
Ditchdigger S 
Drivers Test S 
Flashing the Eave S 
Fluffer S 
Honey Dipper S 
Jungle Rot Slot T 
Learners Permit S 
May I Take Your Order Please? S 
Mucker S 
Paper Route, The S 
Roofer S 
Run for Cover S 
Screen Printer S 
Snatch S 
Stable Boy S 
Superman S 
Telemarketer S 
Unsorted Routes:

The Paper Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Justin McDonald, Darren Knezek, Aaron Wilkinson
Page Views: 1,755
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Apr 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Jobsite Left 3 The Paper Route 5.8 4 May I Take Yo...

Description 

The crux is a bouldery start to the first bolt, then it is fairly easy cruising the rest of the way to the anchors( probably 5.6 to 5.7 after the start).

The rock is sharp and rough, but reasonably solid. Small, sand-sized particles fell throughout our climbing, but nothing large (shop goggles would have been appreciated for the belayers, actually).

Protection 

9 bolts to chain anchors.

Location 

This is the third-from-left route at The Jobsite, at the far left side of the area.


Photos of The Paper Route Slideshow Add Photo
top of pitch 3
top of pitch 3
a mock photo of the start of this route.
a mock photo of the start of this route.

Comments on The Paper Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Apr 16, 2007

For what it's worth, someone rated this 5.10a in Rockclimbing.com's database. I didn't think it was quite that hard, but I'm not very good at judging ratings.
By Skyler Penrod
Jul 20, 2008

I don't agree with a .10a rating on this climb. The start is bouldery with a few power moves, but can be easily moved through.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Nov 17, 2008

I would agree that it is nowhere near 5.10. In fact when I was first told about the route right after the FA I was told it was hard 5.7. The opening move is a bit bouldery, but after the 3rd move, it is easy sailing to the top.
This is the best first pitch to Snatch in my opinion.
By Brian Koralewski
From: Springville, Utah
Nov 27, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The first move is about 5.9. Pretty good route.
By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
Mar 14, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

With all the traffic this route gets it is pretty clean now.
By Sam Cannon
From: Holladay, Utah
Aug 21, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

It seems like this is a bit misleading to call 5.8 - the start felt bouldery 5.9 to me. I've just started climbing in Rock Canyon but the grades seem all over the place on the soft-stiff spectrum. To me LCC and BCC feel fairly consistent (internally, as in 5.10s in LCC tend to be in line with each other, etc) with a few outliers. I guess there have been a lot of different route setters in the area which would explain it, though LCC has had that as well.

I'm not jumping on the RC SUX bandwagon, just making an observation.
By EricaGetto
Mar 20, 2015

The rock here is very sharp. I'm not a super amazing or strong climber, but found this rock to be very unforgiving. This route was overall quite easy, but I was looking at it as my warm up and the first few moves to the first bolt were powerful and very sharp. Once you get over the first overhanging section the route mellows out quite a bit. Leather hands might be necessary.

The approach from the main path is all talus scree. Pretty slippery.
By Brody Smith
Apr 8, 2015

ok listen, the starting moves are quite hard for a 5.8, BUTT (its a big butt) its not the starting move, its letting go of one hand and clipping the first bolt. The rest of the climb is super crusier and only has the rating of 5.8 because the start is difficult for one or two seconds. BUTT if you clip this and get lowered the the ground which is only a couple of feet away everyone would say it is a very easy 5.8. ALSO about the jobsite rock, people keep saying its sharp and BLAH BLAH, but it is some of the most STICKY rock in the canyon, try the rock out early in the morning before the sun hits it, and be very very happy about your choice of super sticky rock.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
and Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!