This is a good crag with a slightly longer approach than some in the area. The crag is an ideal summer morning crag, as its W/NW aspect means shade until early afternoon, and even then there are climbs that see some break from the sun.
This crag lies uphill 15 minutes of talus and trail from The Coliseum and is plainly visible from the top of that crag.
The rock has 3 prominent buttresses, the lower and the upper do not have any routes on them, but the prominent center buttress holds 6 established/published lines from 5.8 to 5.10+, all being trad or mixed lines. These lines, or at least sections of some of them are less traveled than much of the canyon and will feel a little more wild, but they are good lines and for the most part well protected and safe with a standard rack. The lines are mostly 2 pitch climbs, but most, if not all, can be run together as a single pitch 200' climbs with no problem, provided liberal use of slings and runners is applied.
If you do visit this crag, make sure to take both thin and wide gear though, as the Right Y crack takes small gear and the chimney on the Left side has a section of OW that takes a #5 and #6 Camalot quite well.
From The Coliseum, strike out for its extreme West end and then follow a talus field on its West side, following good cairns and sections of trail uphill for about 10 minutes more until a large crag appears on the left side of the field. Work up to this and have a nice day with the whole crag to yourself. The total approach time including fording the creek, changing shoes after, etc... is < 30 min to the crag base from the car.'
I wish a better description of the approach were easy to give, but you'll find the descent much easier to follow on the way out, and know it there after.
This is a great climb, especially done as a single pitch. Start off on less defined but moderate terrain, either shared with the start of 'Stem Cell Research' or to the right of that to reach the base of a crack, and continue a few meters to where the crack splits, with a 2-bolt anchor on the left side. Place smaller gear on this lower section to save the larger gear for the top.Belay at the anchor, or better yet, clip a long runner to it, and keep climbing.As the crack splits, st...[more]Browse More Classics in CO