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The Palace

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The Palace 


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Submitted By: Dylan Kuhn on Oct 16, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: See comment 'description of beta shot'.

Description 

A grotto of featured granite, some steep and overhanging, with mostly sport and a few mixed routes. There are walls facing all directions, so there will usually be both sun or shade available. Rock quality varies - having a helmet on for the occasional falling rock is not a bad idea.


Getting There 

It's about 15 miles up the canyon from Ted's Place (where CO Highway 14 turns off of CO 287), just past Mishawaka and the tunnel.

Parking


After the tunnel, park in the second pullout on the right (the first is immediately after the tunnel). It's important that the parking area can still be used as a slow-vehicle turnout. This pretty much requires parallel parking around the edge, even though diagonal parking might accomodate more vehicles. If there isn't room, please park in the first pullout next to the tunnel. A highway accident due to an overfilled pullout would not be good for the Palace.

River Crossing


The river crossing may be dangerous or impossible in high water - don't underestimate it. In low water, a series of rocks that heads downriver to an island, then across, can be navigated carefully.


100 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',32],['2 Stars',38],['1 Star',22],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',4],['5.8',5],['5.9',14],['5.10',28],['5.11',34],['5.12',13],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Palace:
Orange You Glad   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   The Poudre Face
Sunday Times (aka Sunday Paper)   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Palace Pages
Cheerleaders Gone Hippie   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Poudre Face
Churchill Rejects   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   The Chamber
Rapunzel, Rapunzel   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   The Citadel
The Scepter   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   The Scepter
Palace Guard   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   The Poudre Face
Let Down Your Hair   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   The Citadel
Jestor   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Chamber
Check Your Head   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Poudre Face
Monstrosity   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Mineshaft Wall
Road to Redemption   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   The Chamber
Dear Slabby   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   The Palace Pages
Death and Disfiguration   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Mineshaft Wall
Armor Plated   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Mineshaft Wall
Small Fry   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   The Chamber
Sporting Green   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   The Palace Pages
Back on Black   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Back on Black Wall
Red Hot Space Suit   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Red Wall
Rapid Fire   5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Mineshaft Wall
Browse More Classics in The Palace

Featured Route For The Palace
Toproping Monstrosity.

Monstrosity 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b  CO : Fort Collins : ... : Mineshaft Wall
This is probably the best 5.10 at The Palace. Follow a line a good holds through multiple roofs. No one move will throw you, but the pump might. This is a great line to run laps on, if no one is waiting in line. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of The Palace Slideshow Add Photo
Leaving The Palace on a snowy February evening.
Leaving The Palace on a snowy February evening.
A beautiful sight from Crystal Wall pullout in Autumn.
A beautiful sight from Crystal Wall pullout in Aut...
OK, someone had a lot of spare time on their hands, or some recreational drugs. Maybe both. This was pretty cool nonetheless.
OK, someone had a lot of spare time on their hands...
Art on Rapunzel at the Citadel, the Palace.
Art on Rapunzel at the Citadel, the Palace.
Good view of the Scepter and the Citadel.
Good view of the Scepter and the Citadel.
Mineshaft Wall.
Mineshaft Wall.
Comments on The Palace Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 14, 2011
By SterlingArcher87
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 15, 2014
CONDITION REPORT 

As of 3/15/14, the river path to The Palace has been washed out. Currently shin-knee deep wading is still possible though chilly.

By Adam Baxter
From: Estes Park, CO
Dec 26, 2007

Check out Sam Shannon's Palace Rock Guide, intermittently available at Jax and REI.

By desbien
From: seattle,wa
May 6, 2008

Anyone know if the river is crossable right now?

By They call me Sam
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
May 16, 2008

I heard of a 13a somewhere. Beta anyone? Is it worth working?

By Dusty
From: Fort Collins
Oct 20, 2009

Does anyone know anything about the climb immediately to the left Sporting Green? I climbed this the other day and was curious about the name, grade, FA, etc.

By Spencer Anderson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Dec 3, 2009

Dusty, in the last guide book it was still listed as a project, 13?

By beavs
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Dec 18, 2009

The route is called Obituary, 13a (FA-Derek Peavey).

By Dusty
From: Fort Collins
Jan 11, 2010

Great. Thanks, Beavs.

By beavs
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Jan 15, 2010

Anytime. By the way, did you come away with a bloody finger?

By Dusty
From: Fort Collins
Jan 22, 2010

Bloodied up the left index finger on the first attempt, so I taped it on subsequent attempts.

By Spencer Anderson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jan 22, 2010

Hey Dusty and Beavs, how fun is Obituary? I need a new project closer to home.

By beavs
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Jan 25, 2010

I honestly can't remember much about it (it's been years now and I have a bad memory!). There aren't a lot of routes that hard around here to choose from, so I would say it's worth working. It has a definite crux fingerlockish move, bring tape. Good luck!

By Dusty
From: Fort Collins
Jan 29, 2010

Spencer, Obituary is great, one of the best at the Palace. It has cool movement: it starts with finger locks and liebacks and moves into big moves on good holds. There is a definite crux but it does stay with you beyond the crux. I would recommend it. There are also several worthy .12/.13 climbs at upper echelon if you haven't scoped that out.

By paul moll
Jul 15, 2010

Anyone have any info. on the river crossing for The Palace? ...or where there might be good alternate options for crossing up or downstream to access these crags? July 15th.

By Brian S
Jul 28, 2010

The best bet for crossing in the summer is a boat.

By Cam Reade
Sep 14, 2011

For personal reference - 45 min. drive from my house to The Palace parking and about the same from CSU.