Mountain Project: Climbing Fort Collins

A grotto of featured granite, some steep and overhanging, with mostly sport and a few mixed routes. There are walls facing all directions, so there will usually be both sun or shade available. Rock quality varies - having a helmet on for the occasional falling rock is not a bad idea.

Getting There

It's about 15 miles up the canyon from Ted's Place (where CO Highway 14 turns off of CO 287), just past Mishawaka and the tunnel.

Parking

River Crossing

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Palace:

Sunday Times (aka Sunday Paper) 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet The Palace Pages

Cheerleaders Gone Hippie 5.9+ Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet The Poudre Face

Churchill Rejects 5.9+ Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet The Chamber

Rapunzel, Rapunzel 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet The Citadel

The Scepter 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet The Scepter

Let Down Your Hair 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet The Citadel

Palace Guard 5.10b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet The Poudre Face

Jestor 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet The Chamber

Check Your Head 5.10b/c Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet The Poudre Face

Monstrosity 5.10b/c Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Mineshaft Wall

The Rack 5.10d Sport, 1 pitch The Chamber

Road to Redemption 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet The Chamber

Check Your Six 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet The Poudre Face

Dear Slabby 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet The Palace Pages

Armor Plated 5.11c Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Mineshaft Wall

Death and Disfiguration 5.11c Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet Mineshaft Wall

Sporting Green 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet The Palace Pages

Small Fry 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet The Chamber

Red Hot Space Suit 5.12b Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet Red Wall

Rapid Fire 5.12d Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Mineshaft Wall

Comments on The Palace

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Comments displayed oldest to newest — Skip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 14, 2011

By Adam Baxter
From: Estes Park, CO
Dec 26, 2007

Check out Sam Shannon's Palace Rock Guide, intermittently available at Jax and REI.

By desbien
From: seattle,wa
May 6, 2008

Anyone know if the river is crossable right now?

By They call me Sam
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
May 16, 2008

I heard of a 13a somewhere. Beta anyone? Is it worth working?

By Dusty
From: Fort Collins
Oct 20, 2009

Does anyone know anything about the climb immediately to the left Sporting Green? I climbed this the other day and was curious about the name, grade, FA, etc.

By Spencer Anderson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Dec 3, 2009

Dusty, in the last guide book it was still listed as a project, 13?

By beavs
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Dec 18, 2009

The route is called Obituary, 13a (FA-Derek Peavey).

By Dusty
From: Fort Collins
Jan 11, 2010

Great. Thanks, Beavs.

By beavs
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Jan 15, 2010

Anytime. By the way, did you come away with a bloody finger?

By Dusty
From: Fort Collins
Jan 22, 2010

Bloodied up the left index finger on the first attempt, so I taped it on subsequent attempts.

By Spencer Anderson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jan 22, 2010

Hey Dusty and Beavs, how fun is Obituary? I need a new project closer to home.

By beavs
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Jan 25, 2010

I honestly can't remember much about it (it's been years now and I have a bad memory!). There aren't a lot of routes that hard around here to choose from, so I would say it's worth working. It has a definite crux fingerlockish move, bring tape. Good luck!

By Dusty
From: Fort Collins
Jan 29, 2010

Spencer, Obituary is great, one of the best at the Palace. It has cool movement: it starts with finger locks and liebacks and moves into big moves on good holds. There is a definite crux but it does stay with you beyond the crux. I would recommend it. There are also several worthy .12/.13 climbs at upper echelon if you haven't scoped that out.

By paul moll
Jul 15, 2010

Anyone have any info. on the river crossing for The Palace? ...or where there might be good alternate options for crossing up or downstream to access these crags? July 15th.

By Brian S
Jul 28, 2010

The best bet for crossing in the summer is a boat.

By Cam Reade
Sep 14, 2011

For personal reference - 45 min. drive from my house to The Palace parking and about the same from CSU.

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The Palace

Description

Getting There

Parking

River Crossing

The Classics