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> Mt Lemmon (Sant…
> Mt Lemmon (Cata…
> 6 - Mid-Mountain
> Druid
> W Face
The Paganizer
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in West Face
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Admiral Throckmorton S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Bron- yr-aur T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Corporal Punishment S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Druid Dynamics S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Druid Roof 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A3 R |
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Grips of Wrath, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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In Lightning S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jack the Slipper S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lights Out S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lights Out At Ten Candles Out At Eleven S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lord Fowelsbain S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Multi roof ???? S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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No Name T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Of Mice and Men T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Paganizer, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Rupley's Believe It Or Not T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Jack The Slipper (Doug Lantz, Eric Fazio-Rhicard, Diane Vetter, '91) The Pagan Sport Finish (Mike Strassman, Scott Ayers, '93) |
| Page Views: | 1,284 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Hendrixson on Jun 25, 2012 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
While technically a mixture of two lines, Jack The Slipper and the sport variation of The Pagan, this route makes for a pleasant clip-up.
Climb Jack The Slipper to the chains. Instead of lowering clip a shoulder length sling to the right chain and move right under the roof. This is the sport variation of The Pagan. Clip a half-yanked bolt that spins (as of June 2012) and pull the roof. Continue straight up moderate jugs to the anchors.
Since the climbing is 5.9 other than the roof, which is 5.11, the line is not consistent at the grade. It is consistent in quality however.
Climb Jack The Slipper to the chains. Instead of lowering clip a shoulder length sling to the right chain and move right under the roof. This is the sport variation of The Pagan. Clip a half-yanked bolt that spins (as of June 2012) and pull the roof. Continue straight up moderate jugs to the anchors.
Since the climbing is 5.9 other than the roof, which is 5.11, the line is not consistent at the grade. It is consistent in quality however.
Location
This route is on the southwest (left) face of the Druid. It is the first bolted line to the right of the large roof and near the bottom of the slope.
Protection
Approximately 12 bolts to chains. Two notes as of June 2012:
The bolt below the roof is half-pulled and the hanger spins. It has been like this for quite some time and held our falls. That does not mean that it will continue catch climbers forever though. This bolt is under outward pressure from the roof above. The tension on this bolt and rope drag above would be lessened by using a shoulder length sling. That said it is in the middle of the crux sequence and above a small ledge so a short draw provides piece of mind.
The anchors consist of two unequalized bolts, the lower of which has a rap ring. There is currently a quickdraw equalizing the anchors. We left the quickdraw in place. A more permanent solution would be a chain.
The bolt below the roof is half-pulled and the hanger spins. It has been like this for quite some time and held our falls. That does not mean that it will continue catch climbers forever though. This bolt is under outward pressure from the roof above. The tension on this bolt and rope drag above would be lessened by using a shoulder length sling. That said it is in the middle of the crux sequence and above a small ledge so a short draw provides piece of mind.
The anchors consist of two unequalized bolts, the lower of which has a rap ring. There is currently a quickdraw equalizing the anchors. We left the quickdraw in place. A more permanent solution would be a chain.
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