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The Oyster Bar
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The Oyster Bar 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: (TR) Kurt Smith 1985 FL: Jim Thornburg, John Clark, Troy Mayr & Jeff Webb 1989
Page Views: 1,257
Submitted By: Josh Beck on Apr 5, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Jakob Styles stylin his way up the razors

Description 

The righthand route in the Oyster Bar, sustained thin edging up a vertical face on excellent quality patina and knobs make this a very fun and reasonably pumpy (for the length of the route) outing.

Protection 

5 bolts, bolted anchor / rappel.


Photos of The Oyster Bar Slideshow Add Photo
Carol Wong on The Oyster Bar (5.11b).
Carol Wong on The Oyster Bar (5.11b).
Oyster Delicacy
Oyster Delicacy
An interesting look up
An interesting look up

Comments on The Oyster Bar Add Comment
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By C Miller
Administrator
Apr 8, 2003
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Somewhat sustained vertical thin crimps up solid edges. This route is noticeably easier than the one to the left.

Aka Oyster Delicacy.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Apr 11, 2003

I'm quite happy with the 5.11b rating. Not a super technical route, but if you have weak fingers (or are overweight) don't expect much luck here. Unless, of course, I'm missing something.
By TrevorB
Jun 22, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Super fun, if you're into thin steep edges. Great photo ops if your cameraperson hikes up to the right of the rock, it gives an expansive look of the whole Sheep's Pass area. A little bummed that there wasn't actually an oyster bar (or a regular bar even) up there; a guy can get pretty thirsty hiking up that far...
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Mar 14, 2007

Watch out for the afternoon sun in March as the wall goes into the shade. You will need welders goggles to see any holds out left. You'll need the holds out there, but you ain't gonna see them..... There is a 3/8" bolt with no hanger right on the summit at the top of the route. You can hang a wired nut on this as a directional for the followers if you are toproping off the rap chains.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 14, 2007

While looking at this route from the base it looks grim. Steep and thin = grim!! You'll also notice that if you blow the second clip you're going to bottom out on the starting block so beware.

The first 3 bolts were as expected steep but amazingly had pretty positive holds. After the 3rd bolt I was either starting to burn out of having trouble finding the right holds. Too much shopping for the right edges used up the last of my gas and I hung. Dang! The next several moves are small and hard with things starting to ease up as you go for the top.

Fun route - must do for the area. Easy to set up a TR if you don't have a solid leader.

~Susan
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jan 5, 2009

Oyster Delicacy?
By Eli Stein
From: Soulthern Caliswag
Feb 12, 2009

when does this route get sun (in feb)?
thanks for the beta!
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Feb 13, 2009

This particularly small face would be sunny around midday (+/- hr or two). The balance of the escarpment is sunny for the rest of the afternoon.
By Brian Chastain
Mar 12, 2013

These are great routes. Too bad I had to sit and watch my friends climb them. I would not recommend making this your last stop of the week. Sharp thin crimps are the bounty on this wall making it not so ideal after a week straight thinning your tips to bloody scabs.
By doak
From: boulder, co
Jan 2, 2014

The edges are sharp and thin. Tastes like burning!