A good cliff with a selection of trad and sport climbs. There are 12 routes so far. The crag is the upper tier of Broken Rock and offers great views in a quiet setting high above Boulder Creek.
A. Transylvania, 11, 1p, 70', bolts & gear. Cracks to flake to steep face. Start at pine tree by cave. B. Yosemite Sam, 10+, 1p, 60', gear. Overhanging crack 15' L of C. C. Louisville Slugger, 11+, 1p, 60', bolts & gear. Overhanging face 10' L of E. D. Golden Child, 11, 1p, 60', bolts & gear. Overhanging face to crack 5' L of E. E. Straight Out of Compton, 8+, 1p, 70', gear. Twin cracks & corner to flake/bulge. F. Denver Nugget, 7+, 1p, 60', gear. Pod 10' R of E. G. Minnesota Fats, 10, 1p, 70', gear. Thin crack to shallow offset corners. 35' downhill & L of J. H. Lobo 10, 1p, 70', gear. Face to hanging flakes. Just R of G. I. Greenfield, 11, 1p, 80', bolt & gear. Bulge to finger crack. Just R of H. J. Obscurity Risk, 12-, 1p, 55', gear. K. Philadelphia Flyer, 11, 1p, 60', 2 bolts & gear. Corners to hand crack through roof. 10' L of K. L. Jersey Devil 9+, 1p, 60', bolts & gear. Corners & roofs on R side of cliff. M. The Probe 11+, 1p, 50', bolts & gear. Climb the roof 10' R of K.
Flake Right?, 7.
Park as for Castle Rock. Cross the bridge and skirt the right (west) side of Broken Rock. At the top of Broken Rock traverse left and reach the far right side of the Overlook. The first route you get to is The Probe; the remaining routes are left and downhill from there.
This a great route with a powerful overhanging start that leads to a cool slab finish. Getting past the second bolt is the crux...watch clipping it. Blow the clip and you could land on your belayer's head. ...[more]Browse More Classics in CO