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The Organ Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in The Organ

L › R R › L A › Z

	Death by Hands T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2 R
	Gates of Hell T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C4

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GPS:	38.63653, -109.59839 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Brad Brandewie on Mar 13, 2007 · Updates
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Access Issue: Closures and Restrictions Details

Check Raptor closure status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/…

Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

The Organ is the twin-towered butte that looms above the parking lot at the Courthouse Towers Viewpoint. Standing roughly 500 ft tall this formation is impressive from any vantage, perhaps most so when it first comes into view on the park road.

For all its splendor though, the Organ sees relatively few ascents compared to its Courthouse Towers neighbors. This is due in no small part to the serious nature of climbing on the Organ. Soft rock and spooky free climbing are to be expected on every route.

The climbing history here is interesting in that each tower has two routes and all four of these routes were put up in a two year period by only 5 climbers.

Pete Gallagher and Steve Sommers nabbed the FA of the southwest tower in the Spring of 86 with Death by Hands. The following month, Duane Raleigh put up Dune solo.

Then in the Fall, Pete went back with John Catto and they climbed Gates of Hell for the FA of the northeast tower. The following year, Jim Beyer soloed the Northeast Buttress.

Since then the only new routing that has been done on the Organ was by Stevie Haston and Laurence Gouault who pioneered a free variation to Death by Hands called Thelma and Louise in 94.

Go big.