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The Organ

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The Organ  

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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: M.Morley on Jul 6, 2002


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Organasm (III 5.8 C2) is the primary line on The Organ, although other routes exist.

Getting There 

Approach from pullout between Weeping Rock and Big Bend Shuttle stops on the west side of the road. Cross the river (sandals helpful).

Organasm is the obvious crack splitting the large roof. A switchbacking climbers' access trail will take you right to the base of the route.

Approach time: With low water, 20 minutes. High water, anyone's guess.

Climbing Season

Weather station 6.2 miles from here

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',1]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Organ:
Organasm   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2     Aid, 4 pitches, 400'   
Browse More Classics in The Organ

Featured Route For The Organ
Mike Morley leading first pitch of Organasm.

Organasm 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2  UT : Zion National Park : The Organ
Organasm is an excellent intro into Zion aid climbing. At just 4 pitches, it's half the commitment of nearby neighbors Touchstone Wall and Spaceshot. Furthermore, pitches 1 and 4 may be free climbed at a modest 5.8 and 5.7, respectively. P1 (5.8) Free climb 5.8 crack up pillar, past a single bolt, and continue through awkward wide section to gain a decent stance at a sling belay.P2 (C1) Aid through a stellar roof through a splitter crack with bomber C1...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of The Organ Slideshow Add Photo
The Organ from the top of Angels Landing.
The Organ from the top of Angels Landing.
The Organ
One of the lamest things I have ever seen while cl...
One of the lamest things I have ever seen while cl...

Comments on The Organ Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andrew Klein
Aug 4, 2002
It would be nice if you can use 3 Black Diamiond .75 and 3 2 inch cams or equivalent as these sizes come in very handy for the first pitch. A few raps off the summit would be advised rather then the bushwacking dirty downclimb.
Sep 30, 2005
it has been a year (+ or -) since I was on this route, but I remember it to be one of my two most favorite routes in Zion. The second pitch is where it is at. Do the whole thing free for complete emancipation. Take normal to light rack as it is a short pitch, don't leave the belay w/o a . 75 BD to protect the crux and to keep the rope out of the crack which would push all of your cams protecting the horizontal part out of reach for the follower. A text book .75 placement can be found just right of the angle change coming out of the roof (separate crack system). Good luck, don't be intimadated by its looks, protects super well and climbs even better.
By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 11, 2006
The first two pitches can be linked with prudent use of long runners and goes free at around 5.11+. The roof is pretty much perfect jams until you pull the lip.

By jackkelly00
Jan 27, 2011
Does anyone know what it goes free at?
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Jan 27, 2011
P1 5.8++
P2 5.11
P3 5.12- Crux crack switch
P4 5.7
By Mike Anderson
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 27, 2011
I think guidebooks call the crux pitch mid-5.12, but it's been so long since I did it, that I have no idea what it should be rated. I remember it being pretty face-climby and super cool.
By Tyson Taylor
May 17, 2013
Does anybody have any information on the short 35', single bolt anchor, hands to tips crack that lies 40' to the right(west) of Organasm? It's a sweet little climb if you're waiting out a slow party on Organasm.
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