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Beckey's Wall Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"Elementary My Dear Watson" T 
3rd Crack Over T 
Axis of Evil Arete T 
Beckey's Wall T 
Cheetah T 
Date with Fate T 
Fingertrip Variation T 
Fruit Loops T 
Hesitate No More T 
Hesitation T 
Needle's Eye Variation T 
Orange Sling, The T 
Pebbles and Bambam S,TR 
Shaken Climber Syndrome S 
Split Decision T 
Split Fingers T 
Split Pants T 
Sweet Jane Variation T 
Tarzan T 
Tingey's Direct T 
Tingey's Terror T 
Tingey's Torture T 

The Orange Sling 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Brian Smoot & Tom Lund, 1997
Page Views: 1,862
Submitted By: bsmoot on Jul 3, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Not as colorful as GRK's but...

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Description 

The Orange Sling II (5.9) climbs the upper slabs of the Gate Buttress. Begin at the top of Date with Fate or Pebbles & BamBam (same belay).

This is a fun, moderate, clean, long route because you get to combine it with Beckey's Wall and either of the good slab routes that climb the face right of the last pitch of Beckey's. Because of it's length, it has the same feel as Tingey's Torture. You get 7 pitches in all, although you may be able to link some of them.

Pitch 1: climb a slab just right of a short right facing corner to a bolt. Continue up to a gear belay at a fixed pin on a horizontal crack (5.6).

Pitch 2: Ascend the high quality slab above past 3 bolts to a bolted belay (5.9).

Pitch 3: Climb the slab above to a steep bulge. A 5.9 finger crack in a left facing corner passes the bulge. Traverse left to a gear belay below a chockstone (#2,3 camalots).

Pitch 4: Be carefull passing the chockstone and ascend the asthestic nobby arete (1 bolt) and a tied-off nob to the top (5.7).

Protection 

Belay off of a giant chickenhead. Bring cams to 3".


Comments on The Orange Sling Add Comment
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By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Apr 29, 2011

can we get some sort of basic topo for this please?
By grk10vq
Administrator
Apr 30, 2011

i've only got this one for now:


you'll want to save a #2 cam for the crab section.
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
May 2, 2011

stoked!
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Apr 23, 2012

hmmm, if this is the route we got on and it appears to be by the bolt count, the 5.9 crux is the hardest 5.9 move I've seen anywhere! Also there is now another set of anchor bolts right below the 5.9 crack (and another mystery slab route below it) which may be a better spot to belay from. The 5.9 crack is excellent and easy to continue to the top of the 5.7 section (did not see or need the bolt). From there we simuled up and right to top of Tingeys and did the East side raps to get down.