This is the left most climb on the clean face just right of the waterfalls. Moderate face climbing to reach first bolt. Straight up hard moves to good stance at second bolt. Crux is moving past second bolt to third bolt. Here the climb goes up on the left past two bolts to the top. A GREAT variation moves up and right after third bolt to a stance on a small platform on a blank face protected by a fourth bolt. The move up is incredible! You think it's impossible. Very little smudges for hands and basically no footholds. Pull up (on nothing) and reach up and left to good hole hold. This is a must do safe variation which gives huge satisfaction when done!
Five bolts to two bolt anchor shared with The Greeboo. One of the anchor bolts is sticking out 1/4 inch. Adding a long runner to a tree would provide additional security. Bolts are placed at ideal locations. Good stances after hard moves.
Would anyone like to comment on rating of the variation of this climb? The guide book says it's harder than the normal route. This is true. 11b? 11c?
By Bruce Morris From: Belmont, CA Jul 17, 2005 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c
The hard variation everyone is talking about is actually the true "Greebo" line that many people avoid by traversing right (5.9+) early on. IOWs: If you're single stay single, if you're married stay marrierd - if you start on the Greeboo, stay on the Greeboo; if you start on the Oracle, stay on the Oracle! PS- There's a dandy 5.11 that runs up right between them, too.
Bruce, in the Falcon's guidebook Rock Climbing the San Francisco Bay Area, it clearly shows a variation which moves from The Oracle across the very thin section continuing on with The Greeboo. I agree with you that the straight up line between the two is great fun and is a very continuous thin face climbing route! Although as a lead, I don't think the bottom could be protected...
By Bruce Morris From: Belmont, CA Aug 24, 2005 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c
No, the center route is definitely a TR (but a good 'un).
By Bruce Morris From: Belmont, CA Feb 20, 2006 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c