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The Optimator

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar 
90 proof 
Anunnaki 
Baroque 
Beer Run 
Bow Flex 
Brodie Machine 
Casey's Route 
Charlie's Pillar 
Chick Flick 
Choss Eliminate 
Ditch 'em 
Double Bock 
Gunning For Gonzo 
Hayutake 
Hefe Weissen 
Jews On Crack 
Jive Crack 
Kitchen Sink 
Lady Pillar 
Long Island Iced Ted 
Miller Genuine Draft 
Mudslide 
Neat 
Optimator 
Pat's Blue Ribbon 
Ram Implosion Wing 
Road Soda 
Sardikar 
Season of the Worm, The 
Soul Fire 
St. Pauli Girl 
Two Scoops 
Unsorted Routes:

The Optimator 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.0758, -109.5948 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 68,278
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Joe Gartner on Sep 24, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: wall as seen from the parking area. the obvious r...

Description 

The Optimator Wall is in Indian Creek (as you may know) and is between the 4x4 wall and the Bridger Jacks.


Getting There 

Get There: take the 2 track road towards the "jacks" but fork left towards a south facing black wall.


33 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',11],['5.11',11],['5.12',7],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Optimator:
Lady Pillar   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 110'   
Chick Flick   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Hefe Weissen   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 50'   
Ditch 'em   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Casey's Route   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Neat   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Sardikar   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Hayutake   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Long Island Iced Ted   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Mudslide   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Soul Fire   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 115'   
Jews On Crack   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
Anunnaki   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Kitchen Sink   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Baroque   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, 80'   
Double Bock   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Two Scoops   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b     Trad, 65'   
Optimator   5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ E7 6c     Trad, 110'   
Pat's Blue Ribbon   5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ E7 6c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Classics in The Optimator

Featured Route For The Optimator
Anunnaki.  Photo by Krischa.

Anunnaki 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a  UT : Moab Area : ... : The Optimator
This climb is found by following the trail right until it goes behind the leaning Anunnaki Pillar. Just as you exit this, you will see a 3" crack that thins to 1" as it climbs 50' zig-zagging wildly through clings on it's way to a set of anchors. This is on the underbelly of the leaning pillar that faces the wall and is one of the steeper splitters in the creek, albeit a short route. Climb up perfect hands for the first half of the route and get ready to gymnastically gun for the top before get...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

News and Events For The Optimator
Comments on The Optimator Add Comment
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By Bryson Slothower
Mar 28, 2005

At the cattle guard after crossing the creek turn left, away from the Jacks. turn right onto an access road and follow it for about 3/4 a mile to the hill below the cliff. There are a few camp sites along the access road and a turn around at the end. This will save you some walking.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 1, 2005

Great wall with longer pitches. Nice moring to noon-sun. Take your 70M rope!

By Sarah Kate
From: Seattle, WA
May 5, 2009

Favorite wall on the creek so far for the ladies. My hands are approx. WC .75-1 for "perfect hands", had a total blast all day up there. Afternoon shade, quiet. DO BRING THE 70 and a couple of nuts and brassies if you're looking at Hayduke.

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
May 11, 2009

Sarah, you do mean BD .75 and 1 camalots for perfect hands...right? I'm not even sure if my 18 month old could get perfect hands in a #1 WC friend crack.

By poundit14
From: Laramie, WY
Apr 15, 2010

This is a good wall that gets plenty of afternoon shade, and is inhabited by grumpy old men, constantly reminding you of how tough they are by downgrading all the climbing, while tr'ing laps on Neat.

By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Nov 3, 2010

Found some gear here on Saturday 10/30. Send me a message if it's yours.

By MountainShralper
Apr 19, 2011

!!LOST CAMERA!! - Cannon Powershot SD970 (silver) in a soft blue case... I put it on top of the car in the parking lot at the base of The Optimator, so it might be found there or it might be along the bumpy road out. :-(
$200 REWARD!! (feel free to walk the road as a team looking for it...I'm in Colorado or I would)

FYI
I did go back to look not 15 minutes after loosing it and couldn't find it, so the only options left are... it bounced off the road and is now out of sight from the road, the non-climbers in the red truck saw it fall of my car and grabbed it or the spirits of Indian Creek took it/ made it vanish because I took a small rock for my collection (won't do that again!).

Thank you in advance!
tappell@gmail.com