Mountain Project: Climbing Indian Creek

The Optimator Wall is in Indian Creek (as you may know) and is between the 4x4 wall and the Bridger Jacks.

Getting There

Get There: take the 2 track road towards the "jacks" but fork left towards a south facing black wall.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Optimator:

Lady Pillar 5.10- Trad, 110 feet

Chick Flick 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet

Ditch 'em 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet

Neat 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet

Casey's Route 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet

Mudslide 5.10+ Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet

Long Island Iced Ted 5.10+ Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet

Sardikar 5.10+ Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet

Hayutake 5.10+ PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet

Soul Fire 5.11- Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet

Jews On Crack 5.11 Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet

Anunnaki 5.11c Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet

Kitchen Sink 5.11+ Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet

Double Bock 5.12 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet

Two Scoops 5.12 Trad, 65 feet

Optimator 5.13- Trad, 110 feet

Pat's Blue Ribbon 5.13- Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet

Featured Route For The Optimator

Soul Fire 5.11- UT : Moab Area : ... : The Optimator

On the left side of the wall is this attractive splitter. Pretty much thin hands all the way, with extra thin hands finishing to the chains. It is possible to stem most the route off the crack to the right, but the business at the end is still hard, tight hands. Watch out for the loose chockstones to the right... there are death blocks waiting to fall on the belayer. Also be careful pulling your ropes, we managed to get one stuck on a death block but fortunately someone else was planning on...[more] Browse More Classics in UT

Comments on The Optimator

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By Bryson Slothower
Mar 28, 2005

At the cattle guard after crossing the creek turn left, away from the Jacks. turn right onto an access road and follow it for about 3/4 a mile to the hill below the cliff. There are a few camp sites along the access road and a turn around at the end. This will save you some walking.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 1, 2005

Great wall with longer pitches. Nice moring to noon-sun. Take your 70M rope!

By Sarah Kate
From: Boulder, CO
May 5, 2009

Favorite wall on the creek so far for the ladies. My hands are approx. WC .75-1 for "perfect hands", had a total blast all day up there. Afternoon shade, quiet. DO BRING THE 70 and a couple of nuts and brassies if you're looking at Hayduke.

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
May 11, 2009

Sarah, you do mean BD .75 and 1 camalots for perfect hands...right? I'm not even sure if my 18 month old could get perfect hands in a #1 WC friend crack.

By poundit14
From: Laramie, WY
Apr 15, 2010

This is a good wall that gets plenty of afternoon shade, and is inhabited by grumpy old men, constantly reminding you of how tough they are by downgrading all the climbing, while tr'ing laps on Neat.

By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Nov 3, 2010

Found some gear here on Saturday 10/30. Send me a message if it's yours.

By MountainShralper
Apr 19, 2011

!!LOST CAMERA!! - Cannon Powershot SD970 (silver) in a soft blue case... I put it on top of the car in the parking lot at the base of The Optimator, so it might be found there or it might be along the bumpy road out. :-(
$200 REWARD!! (feel free to walk the road as a team looking for it...I'm in Colorado or I would)

FYI
I did go back to look not 15 minutes after loosing it and couldn't find it, so the only options left are... it bounced off the road and is now out of sight from the road, the non-climbers in the red truck saw it fall of my car and grabbed it or the spirits of Indian Creek took it/ made it vanish because I took a small rock for my collection (won't do that again!).

Thank you in advance!
tappell@gmail.com

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The Optimator

Description

Getting There

The Classics