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Cryptic Trip 
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Turkey Beard 

The Open Book 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

Type: Trad, 2 pitches, 175'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: FA: Guy Jacobson, Gil Harder, 1978. FFA: Bob Rotert, Randy Mann and Ted Anderson
Season: Spring - Fall
Page Views: 4,842
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on Feb 27, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Some of the gear at the start/crux of the route. Y...

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  • Description 

    This climb offers some of the best jams and stems in the gorge. When you see it you will know why and you will want to climb it.

    From the rock ramp climb your way up to a roof and bulge. Continue up the incredible corner to a tree covered ledge, building a belay mid way through the corner.


    The Open Book is located in the Ampitheater. Approach via the main descent gully, route will be on your right side as you are descending. If you reach the prow...go back. Look for a large wet chimney and water streaks, route is just to the right. Rack up and stash packs before hiking into the gully.


    Standard NC rack. There are a couple of pins/bolts through the crux roof moves but that is about it.

    Photos of The Open Book Slideshow Add Photo
    Greenville local Tony Jones getting established in the open book
    Greenville local Tony Jones getting established in...
    Tony Jones stemming the open book...like a boss
    Tony Jones stemming the open book...like a boss
    The Open Book, 5.11b, Linville Gorge, NC
    The Open Book, 5.11b, Linville Gorge, NC
    The Open Book, 5.11b, Linville Gorge, NC
    The Open Book, 5.11b, Linville Gorge, NC
    View of the Book from the top of the Mummy.
    View of the Book from the top of the Mummy.
    Comments on The Open Book Add Comment
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    By Blake Allen Green
    Oct 20, 2010

    This route is fantastic. It has a very bouldery crux pulling the roof, then it calms down and offers amazing moves in a fantastic location. #2 and #3 c4s are pretty useful in the dihedral part of the climb. The entire climb from the roof to the top can be done in 1 pitch if you build a belay right below the crux. There are some fixed pins and a fixed bolt, but they are all pretty old and sketchy looking.

    By Harrison Dreves
    From: Nashville, TN
    Oct 28, 2010

    Climbed it with Blake Green Fall 2010. We left a fixed BD nut right at the crux; it protects the crux moves well.

    By rock_fencer
    From: Columbia, SC
    Jul 5, 2011

    The tat on the bolts has been cut off. no idea why it was there to begin with. Pin's can be backed up with small cams. Fixed nut is still in place, but kinda gets in the way i thought. thin hands to #4 for the rest of it.

    By Bob Rotert
    Aug 19, 2013

    For History on this FFA was 1978 or maybe 79, the FA by Guy was much earlier. Love seeing the pictures!!