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The Open Book 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 175'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: FA: Guy Jacobson, Gil Harder, 1978. FFA: Bob Rotert, Randy Mann and Ted Anderson
Season: Spring - Fall
Page Views: 6,142
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on Feb 27, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Greenville local Tony Jones getting established in...

Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>


This climb offers some of the best jams and stems in the gorge. When you see it you will know why and you will want to climb it.

From the rock ramp climb your way up to a roof and bulge. Continue up the incredible corner to a tree covered ledge, building a belay mid way through the corner.


The Open Book is located in the Ampitheater. Approach via the main descent gully, route will be on your right side as you are descending. If you reach the prow...go back. Look for a large wet chimney and water streaks, route is just to the right. Rack up and stash packs before hiking into the gully.


Standard NC rack. There are a couple of pins/bolts through the crux roof moves but that is about it.

Photos of The Open Book Slideshow Add Photo
Some of the gear at the start/crux of the route. Y...
Some of the gear at the start/crux of the route. Y...
Tony Jones stemming the open book...like a boss
Tony Jones stemming the open book...like a boss
The Open Book, 5.11b, Linville Gorge, NC
The Open Book, 5.11b, Linville Gorge, NC
The Open Book, 5.11b, Linville Gorge, NC
The Open Book, 5.11b, Linville Gorge, NC
View of the Book from the top of the Mummy.
View of the Book from the top of the Mummy.

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By Brian Abram
From: Celo, NC
Aug 9, 2015
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

8/8/15: The access ramp is about 100 feet of 5.3 rotten rock. The first belay should be set about 10 feet below the roof at a nice stance with decent gear. The rest of the climb can be done as one or two pitches. I have done it both ways and highly recommend doing it as one long pitch. Traversing into the belay ledge halfway up is fine, but I swear that getting back on route from the belay is more insecure than any other moves besides the start.

For the start of the business, the fixed nut is still in place, and it protects the crux move very well. The crux requires a difficult heel hook/lie back lock off bump for a jug. Once at the jug, you can easily clip an old pin before making an easy move to a splitter 3/4" cam placement. The pin is currently tied to a time bomb bolt with ratty webbing I wish I could've cut off. When the bolt is gone, it probably should not be replaced.

The route after the crux start is probably about 5.9, but it is very sustained; sort of a harder White Lightning. I don't believe I finagled any no-hands rests. The route eats gear up to a #3 Camalot. I took and placed a #4, though it wasn't necessary, and I just placed it to lose the weight. There were plenty of other options.
By Blake Allen Green
Oct 20, 2010

This route is fantastic. It has a very bouldery crux pulling the roof, then it calms down and offers amazing moves in a fantastic location. #2 and #3 c4s are pretty useful in the dihedral part of the climb. The entire climb from the roof to the top can be done in 1 pitch if you build a belay right below the crux. There are some fixed pins and a fixed bolt, but they are all pretty old and sketchy looking.
By Harrison Dreves
From: Denver, Colorado
Oct 28, 2010

Climbed it with Blake Green Fall 2010. We left a fixed BD nut right at the crux; it protects the crux moves well.
By rock_fencer
From: Columbia, SC
Jul 5, 2011

The tat on the bolts has been cut off. no idea why it was there to begin with. Pin's can be backed up with small cams. Fixed nut is still in place, but kinda gets in the way i thought. thin hands to #4 for the rest of it.
By Bob Rotert
Aug 19, 2013

For History on this FFA was 1978 or maybe 79, the FA by Guy was much earlier. Love seeing the pictures!!
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