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The Open Book 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 600', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: T.Spencer and R.Perla, 1961
Page Views: 11,548
Submitted By: Mark Michaels on Sep 1, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (51)
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Going up the boulders to the beginning of the firs...


Straight forward route finding, good protection, and an incredible location make this a prized route.

Approach up the boulder field to the right of the summit wall. Climb up an easy dihedral (5.3) for 40 feet to belay on a large ledge before the dihedral continues up at a slightly steeper angle.

All belays require natural anchors. Some horns may be slung for anchors, but these horns tend to not be in comfortable stances.

Pitch 1 - 5.6 - Climb up the v shaped dihedral for 30 feet until you reach a horizontal flake that transitions you 10 feet over to the right and up 10 feet to the belay ledge. A #2 Camalot perfectly protects the flake transition.

Pitch 2 - 5.7 Awkward Chimney - Calling this a chimney is almost misleading. It is more like a offwidth crack with plenty of holds inside and outside the crack so that you never have to use offwidth technique. The pitch goes directly up the wall out ten feet from the large dihedral on the left. There is a thin crack to the left the offwidth that takes good protection or use the crack at the back of the offwidth. Belay on a good ledge above the cracks.

Pitch 3 - 5.7 Bear Hug - Climb numerous fluted cracks above the ledge. After 50 feet the cracks form two perfect parallel hand cracks that continue for another 30 feet. After another 20 feet you reach a good belay ledge. You will pass two historic pitons on this pitch.

Pitch 4 - 5.7 - Easier climbing continues above the ledge as you lean left towards the large dihedral that you have been following for the entire route. Place a #3 Camalot in a horizontal crack just below a small roof and then pull over to the right of the roof. From here easy moves take you directly to the summit.

Descend to the north following the summit ridge. Descent to the cirque will take you under an hour.


Cams, Hexes, Nuts, and plenty of long slings.

Photos of The Open Book Slideshow Add Photo
Top of the 3rd, "bear hug" section.
Top of the 3rd, "bear hug" section.
Lone peak summit wall. Open Book. Trip Report: rjo...
Lone peak summit wall. Open Book. Trip Report: rjo...
N. Summit Wall Beta
BETA PHOTO: N. Summit Wall Beta
Showing the approach and all four pitches. Pitches...
BETA PHOTO: Showing the approach and all four pitches. Pitches...
We scrambled up some 5th class stuff to a cordelet...
BETA PHOTO: We scrambled up some 5th class stuff to a cordelet...
Half way up pitch three. The flutted cracks are sh...
Half way up pitch three. The flutted cracks are sh...
First pitch nearly completed.
First pitch nearly completed.
Looking down from the belay at the top of pitch th...
Looking down from the belay at the top of pitch th...
Almost to the crux of the fourth pitch. Fifteen fe...
Almost to the crux of the fourth pitch. Fifteen fe...
P3 Bear Hug Section Devin.
P3 Bear Hug Section Devin.
The approach to Open Book.  Also a good view of th...
BETA PHOTO: The approach to Open Book. Also a good view of th...
Leading P2 "the awkward chimney" on The ...
Leading P2 "the awkward chimney" on The ...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 6, 2013
By Mark Michaels
From: Draper, UT
Sep 25, 2006

If you study the photo, you shouldn't have any major route finding problems!
By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Nov 13, 2007

Moved Lee Jensen's description from a comment to the route description.
By Jared Hargrave
From: Salt Lake City, UT.
Sep 22, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Maybe it was the cold, lightning, thunder and hail that made this route not so fun. I need to try it again on a day with better weather.
This is a solid 5.7 climb all the way to the last pitch. The off-width is the hardest section in my opinion. In fact that sharp granite is like a cheese grater on the arms and legs when you get sucked into it. Stay out where there are good holds!
You will find awesome foot jams in the "Bear Hug" section. Not too difficult at all. I found this route protected well, but bring lots of big pro. We ran out of large cams and nuts on almost every pitch, therefore we had to do it in 5 pitches instead of 4. Also made protecting the belay interesting. The plus? It gets you to the top of Lone Peak where the view is amazing!
By Nat Shultz
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 9, 2009

Anyone have a bit more detailed rack info? Thanks!
By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Jul 9, 2009

We had a single rack and it was plenty (and we did it in three pitches).

As I recall, it was a set of BD stoppers (#4 to #13), a set of BD C4's (#.3 to #3, with an extra #2), BD C3's #0 to #2, a dozen or so trad draws plus two or three double length slings.
By Taylor Morgan
From: Draper, UT
Jul 20, 2009

Anyone been up to the cirque recently? I'm wondering how water/snow conditions are. Considering an attempt in early August.
By dfrancom
From: Palmer, AK
Jul 20, 2009

I was just up there on Saturday July 18th! there is still a little snow inside the cirque. Water won't be a problem. you can melt snow with a stove. I used the Alpine approach. Lot of water along the way. No snow on the trail in.
By Lynn Stephens
From: Orem, Utah
May 14, 2010

The beta on the web page says go right around the roof on the 4th pitch, but the description on the photo says to go left. Which is it?
By Brian G
Jun 29, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Lynn, Go right. It's pretty obvious when you're there.

Fun route but not the exposure you expect or want when in the cirque...at least in my opinion.
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Sep 6, 2011

I'm going to speak blasphemy here but I enjoyed this route as much as the Lowe route. I thought the chimney pitch and the fluted cracks pitches were really fun, and it tops out right onto the summit. We did it in 3 pitches, linking 1-2. We saw lots of folks belaying on slung horns in horrible stances which made no sense to us. Link 1-2 to top of chimney and belay in a wide groove. Pitch 3 is a full 200' to a bomber ledge below a roof with medium gear for belay. Pitch 4 goes up into the obvious chimney then over the roof with a pin and belay 10 feet below the summit, before crawling through a hole onto the top. Superb for the grade.
By wasatch-mtn-man
Jul 20, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Super sweet climb. Had some interesting weather (rain, wind). Used a lot of gear. Had one set of nuts, double set of Camalots up to #3, one #4 and wished for bigger gear (but who wants to haul it up there) along with one set of C3's with doubles in #1 and #2. Shoulder-length slings extremely useful. We linked one and two but I made the mistake of missing the belay stance at the end of P2 which looking back seemed really vague so ended up rigging a hanging belay 30 feet up pitch #3.

Awkward, interesting climbing with hand and foot jams, arm bars, stemming, face climbing and, yes, bear hugging. There are some slippery, grainy foot holds you have to watch out for; one of which caught me completely off-guard (thanks C4 #2).

To start P1 we scrambled up to the diorite block and belayed from there.

(BTW - left a #2 C3 and #2 C4 up there somehow if someone can grab it for me I will bring cookies)
By AGoo
Jul 30, 2012

Climbed Open Book on Pie and Beer Day last week. Some how lost a number 2 TCU and Wild Country sling draw. If you find it and would be kind enough to return it I would gladly make it worth your time i.e. Beer, Money, a Thank You Card or Cookies.

By AGoo
Aug 27, 2012

Wasatch MTN Man, I have your cams, send me a message or call and I will return them to you.
By Hendo
From: Denver, CO
Jul 2, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Excellent climb! Horrible approach to the cirque, haha. Worst hike of my life. Anyway, the crux for me was the traverse from the first flake on pitch 1 (exiting the flake, there weren't that many positive holds). And the other crux was the chimney with a backpack! Oh man, so exhausting. The twin cracks were amazing. Try staying in the left crack as long as possible, there are amazing hand and foot jams for about 40ft. Eventually you'll have to "bear hug" though.
By ddriver
From: SLC
Aug 6, 2013

Finally did this route and was surprised at how consistently good it is. I expected lots of rounded runnels, but there is really very little of this. There is absolutely no awkward climbing required here and no polished rock, either. Classic friendly climbing, well worth repeating.

I would change the route description for pitch 2. There is no reason to climb the "awkward chimney." Stay in the dihedral. It is clean, protects well, and the step across to the belay is easy. This variation is also 5.7 and not awkward.

The "bear hug" is clean splitter jamming, not rounded.

Belay ledges are all rather large, easy to protect and find. Can't see any sling belays happening here.
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