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The only book on crack technique worth reading:

Original Post
Chris Weidner · · Boulder, CO · Joined Sep 2002 · Points: 1,551

Having read many books on climbing technique over the last few decades I've almost given up. They're rarely worth the time it takes to plow through them. Especially crack technique books. How hard can it be anyway -- you shove body parts in the crack and twist ... right?
So when I reluctantly opened The Crack Climber's Technique Manual, by Kent Pease, I was ready to skim it and toss it aside.

I couldn't have been more wrong. This book provides many simple and thorough explanations as to why crack climbing is not just about jamming, twisting, and taking the pain. The illustrations are super helpful, showing jamming, camming and wedging styles I have never thought to try. I think this book will help me improve my crack climbing, even after years of (mostly poor) technique practice.

I'm bringing this book with with me to Squamish in a few weeks, in case I need to reference it when I get spanked.

Thanks to Kent Pease, Jason Haas, and Fixed Pin Publishing for putting out a unique book that can actually improve your climbing.

You can order a book here: fixedpin.com/products/the-c…

davegreg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 5

As a beginner, I must say that this book helped me a lot. It's useful and easy to read.

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

Glad to see that this is finally in print!

Congrats Kent!

Adan Clinton · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0

I am a new member ,and know less about those ,thank you for sharing !

ShireSmitty · · WP · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 70

I was lucky enough to have great timing today and get one of only 2 copies that Neptune had, and I have to say that after just one quick flip through, i feel like a better climber already. I can't wait to really delve into it and try everything in the book...

bobdelon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0

congrats! it’ll be worth reading.

Stephen Minchin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 10

Just ordered a copy solely as a result of this thread... Will report back.

Will hold it against youse fullahs if it sucks :)

Ben Schneider · · Westminster, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 115

Glad to see so much interest from everyone here! And thanks for the positive review Chris. Jason, Kent, Samantha, and I have been working on this book for three or four years now (and Kent for much longer!) and we're thrilled that it's getting such positive feedback! I'm including a few sample pages here to show you what to expect:

Crack Technique Pg. 31

Crack Technique Pg. 32

Crack Technique Pg. 105

GabeO · · Boston, MA · Joined May 2006 · Points: 302

Just got my copy in the mail. It's fantastic! I would call myself a pretty experienced crack devotee, but it contains stuff that I've never even considered before. And as for the stuff I "already know", I'm impressed with how clearly it's laid out. Kent obviously knows his stuff, but presenting it well is not easy, and the illustrations do a masterful job of that.

Nice work!

GO

Mike Storeim · · Evergreen, CO · Joined Sep 2002 · Points: 30

Add me to the list of people who think this is the best technique book ever!

Congratulations Kent!

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526

I think this is the best book on climbing technique ever written. Crack climbing has always been something of a dark art, rarely adequately described, only to be learned by a long and intense apprenticeship. Although previous authors have effectively described this or that particular technique, this book draws back the curtain on the entire enterprise, while equaling or surpassing previous individual technique accounts. There's essential knowledge for the novice, presented in a way that makes real sense, and a trick or two for the old dogs as well.

Chris Rice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 55

No doubt the best crack climbing text ever - the only thing not covered is how to get my size 13 boats to stick in a small finger crack :).

Joy likes trad · · Southern California · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 71

$28.95 for a 200 page flexi spine...ouch. I'll be looking for a used version thanks.

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

Probably much needed given the lack of technique I've witnessed over the years. The best treatise I've found on the subject (up until this point) is an article by Dale Bard in an old Chouinard catalog. Someone was kind enough to scan and post it on Supertopo. You can find it if you do a search.

Unknown Unknown · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,830

This looks fantastic, and I don't mind paying $30 for a book... but there is no way that I can pay that plus the $38 shipping to Canada. Anyone find anywhere in Canada that it is available? Or even a digital version?

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526

FD, most of what's been written, including the Dale Bard article, can be found on the widefetish site, widefetish.com/pages/how_to…. The Crack Climber's Technique Manual includes all this and quite a bit more, with generally much better artwork that really shows how to do it and more detail about every type of technique.

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

Rich, I only mentioned the article for those who might find the price of the book a little stiff, though it was written well before Leavittation. The new book looks great, and has all the new OW technique covered apparently.

Andrew Durniat · · Wooster, OH · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 5

Can't wait to start reading this. Like the above, I ordered based on this thread. Starting once I finish RCTM.

Grant Dunstan · · Caledon East, Ontario · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 25
gription wrote:$28.95 for a 200 page flexi spine...ouch. I'll be looking for a used version thanks.
How many years has it been since you bought a book? Without having read the book 28$ seems reasonable.
Eric Nguyen · · Natick, MA · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 10

The Wideboyz, Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker, put together a cool little series on crack climbing technique. Well worth the watch:

youtube.com/playlist?list=P…

Steven Lee · · El Segundo, CA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 385

Just bought one. Thanks MP for helping me find ways to spend even more money on climbing!

Seriously though, looking forward to it. Don't have any consistent crack mentors, and this seems to be exactly what I was looking for.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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