The On-Slot 5.11
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11 [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | claramie on Nov 13, 2008 |
| |
ed on the rest.. HOLD HOLD!
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Location Right of Bad Rad Duality. Pull an undercling to fingers roof and continue into a tight corner.
Description Right of Bad Rad Duality. Boulder through a roof from underclings to finger locks to a rest stance. Power up through a tight corner / slot past a horizontal and up to another rest stance on a ledge. Find a way to get off the stance and continue up the slot the rest of the way. Top out the crack and step over right to the bolt anchors.
Who knows, you might arm bar, fist jam, chicken wing, heel toe scum, and or use the arete. So many options...
Protection Fingers through hands
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
May 12, 2010
| Unheralded crag classic!
Just a couple of notes: while the guide calls this The Onslaught, there is a plaque at the base reading On-Slot 5.11.
Also, I felt that the gear recs in the new bloom guide were off, it called for extra .75 camalots, and I was getting mostly extra .5 camalots. Great route with a fun roof/bulge pull. |
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Dec 10, 2010
| just for kicks, I tried toproping the corner to the right (seen in photos). Mostly sub tips with power smearing on perfecto varnish. I basically got nowhere on it, but had fun. Seems like it could be another creek .13 for someone with the skills... |
By slim
May 17, 2011
rating: 5.11 PG13
| almost an awesome route, but the rock quality at the start isn't that great. kind of spooky as your gear is in it and you are tugging on it pretty hard. luckily it is over pretty quick and then the rock is good, with fun flare climbing. a good rack would be a set of tcu's from silver to orange, 2 sets of camalots from .3 to 2 with a bunch of extra .5's. a #4 would be handy at one section of the flare. |
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