The Oldtimey Eleven
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The name comes from the myriad complaints about the rating from some of the crew, which were met only with the comment, "it's an old timey eleven".
So you might find this a bit of a sandbag, but we are pretty sure there is no move harder than 11c on the line. Just be ready for plenty of difficult climbing and continuity.
This route ascends the overhanging dihedral that separates the left vertical panel from the giant roof. It is just right of Crank Du Jour. This is the longest route at the crag and although it isn't the most difficult, it may be the best.
13-14 bolts, stick clip is nice for the first bolt.
From: Golden, CO
May 29, 2010
It's been a couple of years, but I remember this route being really stiff for 5.11, but also really excellent.
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Sep 15, 2010
Anchor upgraded with stainless Sept. 2010. Extraneous quick links left on the cold shuts will be redeployed elsewhere. BTW, single quick links on cold shuts will snarl a rope big time.