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Oldtimey Eleven, The S 
Wobbler Pudding S 

The Oldtimey Eleven 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Anderson and Moscowicz
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 455
Submitted By: richard magill on Aug 7, 2002

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Description 

The name comes from the myriad complaints about the rating from some of the crew, which were met only with the comment, "it's an old timey eleven".

So you might find this a bit of a sandbag, but we are pretty sure there is no move harder than 11c on the line. Just be ready for plenty of difficult climbing and continuity.

This route ascends the overhanging dihedral that separates the left vertical panel from the giant roof. It is just right of Crank Du Jour. This is the longest route at the crag and although it isn't the most difficult, it may be the best.

Protection 

13-14 bolts, stick clip is nice for the first bolt.


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By Monty
From: Golden, CO
May 29, 2010

It's been a couple of years, but I remember this route being really stiff for 5.11, but also really excellent.
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Sep 15, 2010

Anchor upgraded with stainless Sept. 2010. Extraneous quick links left on the cold shuts will be redeployed elsewhere. BTW, single quick links on cold shuts will snarl a rope big time.
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Oct 7, 2014

Hangers upgraded on 10/6/14 courtesy of the Head Crew.