The Old Settler Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: The Old Settler - west face from the air
The Old Settler is a rock peak located east of Harrison Lake in the Coast Mountains. The peak offers rock routes of up to 12 pitches length with a generally short and glacier-free approach, as well as good camping. The rock on the south side of the mountain is ultramafic and amongst the best in the Coast Mts - not to be missed - while on the north part of the mountain it decreases somewhat in quality. Most routes see some traffic but not can be considered busy; lineups are unlikely and seeing another party is rare.
The mountain is usually approached via the Harrison East FSR (Forest Service Road) from Harrison Hot Springs. Drive the paved road up the east side of Harrison Lake to Sasquatch PP, then the gravel logging road north for about 25km to Bear Creek logging camp.
From here, the approach to the summit splits. West and south facing routes are approached via Talc Creek North FSR, which requires 4wd and is about 12km long. From the driveable road in Talc Creek, hike a deactivated spur for 2 hours then bushwhack through the south side of the subalpine bowl and climb a forested headwall through old growth to good campsites at Daiphy Lake (1 hr up to lake from old road.) The base of the routes on the peak can be reached in about 1 hour from the lake over talus.
Routes on the north and east side of the Old Settler can be reached via Settler Creek road. Drive Cogburn Creek FSR from the logging camp to about the 15km mark, then cross a bridge to the south and double back into the Settler Creek drainage. The logging road here is deactivated and in poor shape but can be followed for 6km to a lake below the Settler's north face.
Weather station 11.5 miles from here
14 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',1]
Featured Route For The Old Settler
East Buttress of the South Peak 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b North America
: ... : The Old Settler
Begin on the north side of the buttress toe below a prominent slabby dihedral. Climb up along the right side of this dihedral and adjacent cracks and slabs for three pitches up to 5.6. Continue on lower-angle terrain (Class 4 and easy Class 5) for another three pitches (good for simulclimbing) to a belay in a prominent cave. Climb the overhang out the left side of the cave (5.7 crux) and up two more pitches above to the summit dome of the south peak.The rock on this route is equally as good as t...[more] Browse More Classics in International
By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Mar 17, 2009
Nice contribution Dru! Looks like a great area.
By Anne Gafiuk
Jul 2, 2014
I have been interviewing a 97 year old WWII RCAF pilot who was involved in a crash investigation back in September 1941 on Old Settler Mountain. Does anyone know of the airplane crash site or seen evidence of an Anson airplane? If so and you have photos of the site, I would be very interested to see them and share them with Cliff. It is quite a story! I can be contacted via email at firstname.lastname@example.org. Thank you!
By Nick N
From: Telluride, CO
Aug 11, 2014
For anybody wishing to attempt the Old Settler via Daiphy Lake, there is now a 5 foot high log barricade right in front of the creek crossing before the gate, which means unless you have a monster truck it is literally impossible to drive past this. Count on an extra 4 hours of hiking (Alpine Select guidebook says 9.5km) up to where the 4wd accesible road ends.