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DescriptionThe Old Settler is a rock peak located east of Harrison Lake in the Coast Mountains. The peak offers rock routes of up to 12 pitches length with a generally short and glacier-free approach, as well as good camping. The rock on the south side of the mountain is ultramafic and amongst the best in the Coast Mts - not to be missed - while on the north part of the mountain it decreases somewhat in quality. Most routes see some traffic but not can be considered busy; lineups are unlikely and seeing another party is rare. Getting ThereThe mountain is usually approached via the Harrison East FSR (Forest Service Road) from Harrison Hot Springs. Drive the paved road up the east side of Harrison Lake to Sasquatch PP, then the gravel logging road north for about 25km to Bear Creek logging camp. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Old Settler:
West Couloir 4th Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine, 10000 feet, Grade II
South to North Traverse 4th Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 2500 feet, Grade III
West Buttress of the South Peak Easy 5th Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1100 feet, Grade III
Complete Northwest Ridge 5.6 Easy Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine, 3 pitches, 5000 feet, Grade III
East Buttress of the South Peak 5.7 Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III
Watchman's (Northeast) Ridge 5.8 Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 2000 feet, Grade III
Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck) 5.8 Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade III
Mars Western 5.8 Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III
Totally Spurious 5.8 Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 900 feet, Grade III
The Contact Zone 5.8+ Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III
Black September 5.10- Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade IV
Duck a L'Orange 5.10- Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1100 feet, Grade IV
Featured Route For The Old Settler
Mars Western 5.8 International : Canada : ... : The Old Settler
Begin about 100m right of the toe of the west buttress, below the SW face of the south peak, and climb steep, black-streaked corners (crux, 5.8) to reach the southern corner of a major ledge on the buttress crest. [This ledge can also be reached from the west buttress route, bypassing the 5.8 start in favor of the mid-5th climbing on the west buttress). From the ledge, trend up and right onto the south peak's southwest face, following a diagonalling route up solid slabs and cracks. Cross a promi...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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