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The Old Settler

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Black September 
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The Old Settler 

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Elevation: 6,994'
Location: 49.5105, -121.6224 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,532
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Dru on Mar 16, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: The Old Settler - west face from the air
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The Old Settler is a rock peak located east of Harrison Lake in the Coast Mountains. The peak offers rock routes of up to 12 pitches length with a generally short and glacier-free approach, as well as good camping. The rock on the south side of the mountain is ultramafic and amongst the best in the Coast Mts - not to be missed - while on the north part of the mountain it decreases somewhat in quality. Most routes see some traffic but not can be considered busy; lineups are unlikely and seeing another party is rare.

Getting There 

The mountain is usually approached via the Harrison East FSR (Forest Service Road) from Harrison Hot Springs. Drive the paved road up the east side of Harrison Lake to Sasquatch PP, then the gravel logging road north for about 25km to Bear Creek logging camp.

From here, the approach to the summit splits. West and south facing routes are approached via Talc Creek North FSR, which requires 4wd and is about 12km long. From the driveable road in Talc Creek, hike a deactivated spur for 2 hours then bushwhack through the south side of the subalpine bowl and climb a forested headwall through old growth to good campsites at Daiphy Lake (1 hr up to lake from old road.) The base of the routes on the peak can be reached in about 1 hour from the lake over talus.

Routes on the north and east side of the Old Settler can be reached via Settler Creek road. Drive Cogburn Creek FSR from the logging camp to about the 15km mark, then cross a bridge to the south and double back into the Settler Creek drainage. The logging road here is deactivated and in poor shape but can be followed for 6km to a lake below the Settler's north face.

14 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',1]

Featured Route For The Old Settler
Looking up the steep 5.7 pitch from the basalt dyke midway up the route.

Mars Western 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c  North America : Canada : ... : The Old Settler
Begin about 100m right of the toe of the west buttress, below the SW face of the south peak, and climb steep, black-streaked corners (crux, 5.8) to reach the southern corner of a major ledge on the buttress crest. [This ledge can also be reached from the west buttress route, bypassing the 5.8 start in favor of the mid-5th climbing on the west buttress). From the ledge, trend up and right onto the south peak's southwest face, following a diagonalling route up solid slabs and cracks. Cross a promi...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Mar 17, 2009

Nice contribution Dru! Looks like a great area.