|Rooster Comb Mtn
Great old, over looked route! This route provides an alternative way of achieving the summit to Rooster Comb with great airy, alpine style climbing. Each pitch is varied and unique. The belays are all comfortable with good stances.
Pitch 1 5.4 G Climb the broken corner to the roof, traversing right passing a pin to a small ledge on a corner. (Option: Belay here to avoid rope drag) Continue up arete, climbing crack to a pin (crux) and finish on large ledge with right leaning crack to build a gear anchor. Large gear could prove to be helpful moving up to the pin. (90 ft)
Pitch 2 5.4 G Climb crack to the chimney, passing a pin (crux). (50 ft)
Pitch 3 4th class traverse, moving around corner to tree. Belay using the crack system and/or the tree. Great airy position. (160 ft)
Pitch 4 5.2 G Climb corner ramp to the summit. (120 ft) Variations include climbing the crack system to the top in right headwall (5.5)
Start by taking the standard hiking trail. Walk for approx 1.5 hours until reaching a set steps made out of logs. Head left and down the hill keeping the cliff on your right. Easier bushwacking done in early spring. To decend, walk back down hiking trail.
Standard Dacks rack, fixed pins. 60 m rope will do it
Top of 4th pitch, to the left you can see the vari...
Looking back after completing the traverse
Looking down the first pitch from the belay ledge
Right leaning crack on first belay
Top of the chimney looking down
The final pitch, pretty straight forward after the...
Start of climb
Mike toping out. Great experience!
|By J. Serpico|
From: Saratoga County, NY
Jun 5, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
I first did this when I started climbing 15 years ago. Did not lead crux pitches then. Absolutely great route, should be a 5 star classic, but P1 either isn't 5.4 or P2 isn't 5.4. Assuming P2 is 5.4, then P1 is 5.5 to 5.6, signifcantly more sustained, dirty/wet and strenous. While falls were safe (and unlikely), and gear was plentiful below the corner, placing gear in the corner ramp while laybacking was impossible since it was at your ankles and out of sight (PG). I had to essentially wedge myself into the corner and squirm up it. My second did the same to clean. Alternate option is to layback run out the corner to the pin (about 70 years old, maybe it holds) and then the climbing is done above the pin. The rest of the route is straight forward and spectacular. Feels like an alpine adventure the way it wanders and finishes on a summit. The V2 crack is steep, question the 5.5 rating looking at it, but didn't climb it as it was wet.
Pro: Standard rack. it will take anything. I used hexes, cams, tricams and nuts on almost every pitch or at the belays. I recommend screamers, especially for the pin at the top of P1. Double ropes helpful to reduce rope drag on this wandering route.