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Rooster Comb Mtn
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Old Route, The 

The Old Route 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 420', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c [details]
FA: FA Fritz Wiessner
Page Views: 542
Submitted By: Paul Deagle on Nov 14, 2012
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Good view from belay ledge

Description 

Great old, over looked route! This route provides an alternative way of achieving the summit to Rooster Comb with great airy, alpine style climbing. Each pitch is varied and unique. The belays are all comfortable with good stances.

Pitch 1 5.4 G Climb the broken corner to the roof, traversing right passing a pin to a small ledge on a corner. (Option: Belay here to avoid rope drag) Continue up arete, climbing crack to a pin (crux) and finish on large ledge with right leaning crack to build a gear anchor. Large gear could prove to be helpful moving up to the pin. (90 ft)

Pitch 2 5.4 G Climb crack to the chimney, passing a pin (crux). (50 ft)

Pitch 3 4th class traverse, moving around corner to tree. Belay using the crack system and/or the tree. Great airy position. (160 ft)

Pitch 4 5.2 G Climb corner ramp to the summit. (120 ft) Variations include climbing the crack system to the top in right headwall (5.5)


Location 

Start by taking the standard hiking trail. Walk for approx 1.5 hours until reaching a set steps made out of logs. Head left and down the hill keeping the cliff on your right. Easier bushwacking done in early spring. To decend, walk back down hiking trail.


Protection 

Standard Dacks rack, fixed pins. 60 m rope will do it



Photos of The Old Route Slideshow Add Photo
Top of 4th pitch, to the left you can see the variation crack system
Top of 4th pitch, to the left you can see the vari...
Looking back after completing the traverse
Looking back after completing the traverse
Looking down the first pitch from the belay ledge
Looking down the first pitch from the belay ledge
Right leaning crack on first belay
Right leaning crack on first belay
Top of the chimney looking down
Top of the chimney looking down
The final pitch, pretty straight forward after the first couple moves
The final pitch, pretty straight forward after the...
Start of climb
Start of climb
Mike toping out. Great experience!
Mike toping out. Great experience!
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