|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 420', Grade II|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]|
|FA:||FA Fritz Wiessner|
|Submitted By:||Paul Deagle on Nov 14, 2012|
|Comments on The Old Route||Add Comment|
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By J. Serpico
From: Saratoga County, NY
Jun 5, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
I first did this when I started climbing 15 years ago. Did not lead crux pitches then. Absolutely great route, should be a 5 star classic, but P1 either isn't 5.4 or P2 isn't 5.4. Assuming P2 is 5.4, then P1 is 5.5 to 5.6, signifcantly more sustained, dirty/wet and strenous. While falls were safe (and unlikely), and gear was plentiful below the corner, placing gear in the corner ramp while laybacking was impossible since it was at your ankles and out of sight (PG). I had to essentially wedge myself into the corner and squirm up it. My second did the same to clean. Alternate option is to layback run out the corner to the pin (about 70 years old, maybe it holds) and then the climbing is done above the pin. The rest of the route is straight forward and spectacular. Feels like an alpine adventure the way it wanders and finishes on a summit. The V2 crack is steep, question the 5.5 rating looking at it, but didn't climb it as it was wet.
Pro: Standard rack. it will take anything. I used hexes, cams, tricams and nuts on almost every pitch or at the belays. I recommend screamers, especially for the pin at the top of P1. Double ropes helpful to reduce rope drag on this wandering route.
By Stephen Waud
May 25, 2015
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Great route with superb views of Giant.
Agree with comments above about p1. 5.5 or 5.6 seems reasonable. We did it in 3 pitches, my half of our group climbing a crack from the belay tree atop p2 (at about 5.5) rather than the 4th class traverse on the ledge. The other rope team linked p3/4 as described above into one pitch.
We left our extra approach gear at the base intending to rap off, which the guidebook indicates can be done with a short downclimb. The slung trees at the end of the downclimb are looking pretty spindly, however, so we reversed the p3 traverse and rapped off the p2 belay tree. Definitely recommend gearing up and leaving any extra gear just off the trail before the bushwhack, that would have saved about an hour off our descent.