|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 240', Grade II|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA:||Tom Patey,Brian Robinson,Brian Henderson,Paul Nunn 1966|
|Submitted By:||USBRIT on Dec 23, 2009|
|Comments on The Old Man of Stoer||Add Comment|
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By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Sep 21, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A couple notes. Take a rack to 3" for the regular route. If you want to do something different from the original route (as in the E1 route that starts from the end of the original route's start) take doubles of 2-3" cams. A 4" cam isn't necessary but would not go unused. Many variations are possible to the original route to make the pitches after P1 a bit harder or more interesting. The hand crack above the belay through the overhangs that is described here as P2, for instance goes at about 5.8 and is not part of the original route (it's part of the E1 (5.10) route up the face) but it is the better way. P2 on the original route goes left from the belay and up to the ramp, then follows the ramp right, avoiding the overhangs. The original route after P1 is about a 5.6 climb that keeps moving up and right around the stack after P2.
Whatever you do, do the route with double ropes...makes life much easier and for a really nice rap to the base.
Fantastic day out. If you're in the area, do it.