The Old Man of Stoer
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BETA PHOTO: Old man of Stoer looking down from the landside
Descend steep grass to reach the sea. One has to swim a 30' channel to reach the stack and then set up a tyrolean .Starting from a cluster of pitons. There are two other rotes up the stack one 5.9 the other 5.11. Described is the original route .P1)Climb the landward face for 12' to gain a big horizontal crack that leads one around the corner to the left arete (cam pro)to a large corner ledge. Climb up left wards from under an overhang to reach a groove.Go directly up the crack to another large ledge on the arete.70'5.7 P2)Climb the a steep wall via a rightwards curving crack to overhangs through these using a crack.Go delicately left to ledges and continue to a cave with a thread belay.70' 5.8 P3) Go rightwards around the arete back to the landward side and right up a ramp ignoring the first upward break to gain a small ledge with a block belay.Beware of pucking Fulmers.40'5.5. P4)Climb the obvious groove to easy rock and finish up a small corner to a fine airy summit.50'5.6. Make a 150' rap mostly in space down the SE corner to a platform. Then rap to the base from the right side of the ledge.
Stor Peninsula. NW Scottish coast.
Normal rack cams and stoppers.
The Original Route.240'5.8 (HVS)
P.Ross on the summit of The Old Man
Busy day on the Old man of Stoer