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 ADVANCED
Haus Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abstract Plain S 
Burning Down the Haus S 
Chainsaw T,S 
Crystal Ball S 
Dance the Magic Dance 
Dink S 
Dirty Love S 
Feet Do Not Fail Me Now S,TR 
Five Nine S,TR 
Flakin' Out S 
Hostile Krainzover S 
Lichen This S 
Little Haus S 
Little Squirt S 
Macho Picasso S 
No Name S 
Not Lichen This S 
Not So Hostile Krainzover S 
Ol' Ball and Chain, The T,S 
Side Plate S 
Sky Pilot S 
Spine, The S,TR 
They Call Me Shorty S 
Throwin' The Drool Again S 
Top Soil S 
Torqued Blow S 
Unsorted Routes:

The Ol' Ball and Chain 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Brady Kendrick
New Route: Yes
Season: April-November
Page Views: 851
Submitted By: bradyk on Jan 15, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: The Ol' Ball and Chain.

Description 

This variation is named after my wife (JK), or the two routes it starts and finishes on. Start on the Crystal Ball undercling, at the 2nd bolt head directly right through the first bolt on crystal ball direct and up and right into the first bolt on Sky Pilot. Take a deep breath and finish up on Chainsaw. This line provides around 70 feet of climbing on a 50 foot wall.

Location 

Start on Crystal Ball and finish on Chainsaw.

Protection 

In the name of safety and less rope drag, I began the route with the first bolt on Sky Pilot and the two previous bolts directly left pre-clipped. Back clean the route for two bolts, pass 1st bolt on Sky Pilot, then lead the rest of the route. The belayer stands on the boulder. Bring 6-7 draws and a red Camalot. 2 bolt anchor.


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