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Haus Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abstract Plain 
Burning Down the Haus 
Crystal Ball 
Dance the Magic Dance 
Dirty Love 
Feet Do Not Fail Me Now 
Five Nine 
Flakin' Out 
Hostile Krainzover 
Lichen This 
Little Haus 
Little Squirt 
Macho Picasso 
No Name 
Not Lichen This 
Not So Hostile Krainzover 
Ol' Ball and Chain, The 
Side Plate 
Sky Pilot 
Spine, The 
They Call Me Shorty 
Throwin' The Drool Again 
Top Soil 
Torqued Blow 
Unsorted Routes:

The Ol' Ball and Chain 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Brady Kendrick
New Route: Yes
Season: April-November
Page Views: 657
Submitted By: bradyk on Jan 15, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: The Ol' Ball and Chain.


This variation is named after my wife (JK), or the two routes it starts and finishes on. Start on the Crystal Ball undercling, at the 2nd bolt head directly right through the first bolt on crystal ball direct and up and right into the first bolt on Sky Pilot. Take a deep breath and finish up on Chainsaw. This line provides around 70 feet of climbing on a 50 foot wall.


Start on Crystal Ball and finish on Chainsaw.


In the name of safety and less rope drag, I began the route with the first bolt on Sky Pilot and the two previous bolts directly left pre-clipped. Back clean the route for two bolts, pass 1st bolt on Sky Pilot, then lead the rest of the route. The belayer stands on the boulder. Bring 6-7 draws and a red Camalot. 2 bolt anchor.

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