The Ol' Ball and Chain
|373 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.12d [details]|
|FA: ||Brady Kendrick|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||bradyk on Jan 15, 2012|
BETA PHOTO: Rope is running through the 1st bolt on Sky Pilot ...
This variation is named after my wife (JK), or the two routes it starts and finishes on. Start on the Crystal Ball undercling, at the 2nd bolt head directly right through the first bolt on crystal ball direct and up and right into the first bolt on Sky Pilot. Take a deep breath and finish up on Chainsaw. This line provides around 70 feet of climbing on a 50 foot wall.
Start on Crystal Ball and finish on Chainsaw.
In the name of safety and less rope drag, I began the route with the first bolt on Sky Pilot and the two previous bolts directly left pre-clipped. Back clean the route for two bolts, pass 1st bolt on Sky Pilot, then lead the rest of the route. The belayer stands on the boulder. Bring 6-7 draws and a red Camalot. 2 bolt anchor.