The Ogre is a large granite formation dominating the upper skyline of Castle Crags State Park. The nearly 1000' East face resembles the face of an Ogre and this is where it gets its name. Most of the established routes climb the longest section of the East face following weakknesses and dykes. They are all multi-pitch trad affairs involving considerable run-outs. The routes range from 5.6 to 5.10d.Standard descent from the summit involves two raps down the North East face into a gully which leads back to the base of the East face. The 1st rap is via bolts on the summit and requires a 200' rope. The second rap is off a tree. Walk down and right to retrieve gear.
Getting There
Follow the Castle Dome trail to Castle Dome's left flank and continue up and left along the ridge line to the Ogre (stay on the crest to avoid bushes.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Ogre aka Mt. Hubris:
Excellent route up the East face of Mt. Hubris. The climbing stays pretty easy but is run out.Pitch 1: 190' 5.5Start at a low point along the East face at a large pine tree below a huge right facing corner. Start out on easy ground up the corner, pass a tree continuue up the face above and belay on a good ledge with a tree.Pitch 2: 110' 5.6Move up and right following broken rock in a dyke system. When the face nears vertical step right to a bolt anchor on a comfortable ledge.Pitch 3: 150' 5.6 Ma...[more]Browse More Classics in CA
The 2.5 mile hike up to the top of the Crags is short, steep, dusty, and unrelenting. Expect 1.5 - 2 hours to the base of The Ogre. Amazing views reward you at mile 2, with the crags arrayed on the west end of a granite plateau and Shasta looming in the northeast.
Don't pass up the year round water at Indian Springs - a great microclimate fold in the mountain, off a marked spur trail at mile 1.6.
Camping on the Crags plateau is possible but not convenient for climbing purposes.
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